Jacob & Co. Astronomia Clarity & Black watch hands-on

Regardless of surprise or not, the astronomical watch series has always been a popular product for Jacob co. Their main ambition as a watch manufacturer is to amaze and attract luxury consumers who think they have seen it all. There are currently six versions of “spacey” Astronomia watches on the Jacob & Co. website, some of which are “unavailable”, and some new versions that will be launched at Baselworld 2017. Now, I want to go back to the 2016 Basel International Watch and Jewellery Show. When I play these two Astronomia watches, they are Jacob & Co. Astronomia Black and Jacob & Co. Astronomia Clarity Baguette. I really like these brand new Jacob & Co. Astronomia Tourbillon watches, so we included them in the 2016 Baselworld 2016 update summary of the top 10 existing watches.

The 2016 Basel Watch and Jewellery Show witnessed no less than three new Jacob & Co. Astronomia watches. We finally experienced the Jacob & Co. Astronomia Sky personally, introducing a smaller case and more complicated functions. The “most affordable” of the new Astronomia watches at the time was actually Astronomia Black, which provided a darker, more space-like appearance in a black DLC-coated 18ct white gold case.

The jeweler Mr. Jacob implicitly understood the performance art in the luxury watch display. He knows that if you want something conservative, you will get a product similar to Patek Philippe or Lange. He (at all) did not try to compete with such a brand. He is tailoring products for those who seek to enjoy the love of ambitious mechanical creation in an open and fresh way. Therefore, Jacob & Co. makes watches and jewelry for customers who like to enhance their taste, status and aesthetic confidence in a bolder visual way. It is wrong to judge whether this is good or bad, because it is just a matter of taste.

As a person who cannot afford such luxury toys, I don’t know what I would do as a consumer. However, as a watch critic, I appreciate the novelty of concept and technical execution that you find in the Jacob & Co. Astronomia watch series. Carefully crafted and conceived, few modern watches are as bold and elegant as the astronomical tourbillon.

The concept of the movement itself is not a true astronomical complication-this means that although celestial bodies are displayed on the surface, the design of the mechanism does not mean to truly track the actual movements of various planets and their relationships with celestial bodies. another. There are other watches for sale (for example, this Geo.Graham Orrery Tourbillon Astronomical watch). For those who own a watch, if you need to adjust the complex functions of the planetarium, do you have a good assistant who can help you? Hurt for a few days.

Jacob & Co. Astronomia Black and Astronomia Clarity-both products appear in this article-have similar but slightly different sports, but they both do exactly the same thing. Jacob & Co. Astronomia Black is equipped with JCAM10 movement, while Clarity is equipped with JCAM12 movement. These are manual winding movements, made of 365 parts, with a frequency of 3 Hz and a power reserve of 60 hours. The movement is adjusted and wound by the folding crown on the back of the case.

Most movements are made of titanium and have a variety of finishes. The movement is divided into four arms, which are set on a pivot point and move continuously around the dial, rotating a full circle every 20 minutes. On the arm is the hour and minute dial (it always remains upright so that you can easily read the time), opposite it is an adjustment system based on a multi-axis tourbillon, and then a small and beautifully rendered map of the earth (every 24 hours Rotate one circle) Opposite the 288-facet “Jacob Cut” spherical diamond, which rotates once per minute. I like to call the latter element “Jacob & Co. Disco Ball”.

The whole movement is about visual brilliance and animation movement. The interesting thing about Jacob & Co. Astronomia watches is that they are equally interesting and attractive to toddlers because they are experienced watchmakers. This is a timepiece and movement that is pleasing on many levels. If you are the owner of one of them, please pray that you do not drop it on the floor.

One of Jacob Arabo’s dreams is to produce a version of Astronomia with a complete sapphire crystal case. Today, most of the 50 mm wide case of the Jacob & Co. Astronomia Tourbillon is made of sapphire crystal, and the rest is made of various gold alloys. In 2017, Jacob & Co. successfully produced the Astronomia all-sapphire crystal glass with all-sapphire crystal. I’ve seen it, but haven’t taken a picture yet. Even the gold hollow case, in addition to the large dome, the structure is also equipped with a series of sapphire crystal windows. Jacob & Co. Astronomia Clarity adds a sapphire crystal as the back cover, which is the second clearest Astronomia model around.

This special version of Jacob & Co. Astronomia Clarity is Clarity Baguette, and its lugs are set with 80 baguette-cut diamonds. This is a good addition of about 6.1 carats of stone, but for more frugal shoppers, Jacob & Co. Astronomia Clarity has a non-diamond-decorated version.

It is completely logical to imagine that these 25.45 mm thick watches would be uncomfortable to wear. It is not possible to bypass the 50 mm wide shells that are only half thick, but it is inaccurate to call them uncomfortable. Despite their avant-garde qualities, I find that most of even the strangest Jacob & Co. watches are designed to be very comfortable on the wrist, ergonomically surround your wrist, and provide a strap Fits firmly. Since both sides of the sapphire crystal mirror are coated with healthy anti-reflection coating, a clear and glare-free scene can be seen in the bubble-type case. If Mr. Arabo makes up his mind, this will become the hell of diving watches… Currently, the astronomical tourbillon of Jacobs is only water-resistant to 30 meters.

When the occasion requires luxury and you don’t hesitate to show it off, something like Jacob & Co. Astronomia Tourbillon is really suitable. In essence, this represents the places and events where the super-rich gather-not afraid to show off their toys or be criticized for extravagant decadence. At least, if you find yourself in such a situation and happen to be someone who appreciates the vivid and passionate art of robotic wrists, Jacob & Co. Astronomia is a very pleasant choice. This reference AT100.31.AC.SD.A Jacob & Co. Astronomia Black, reference AT820.30.BD.SB.A Jaconb & Co. Astronomia Clarity Baguette.

De Bethune DB28 Steel Wheels Sapphire Tourbillon Watch

On the occasion of the 10th anniversary of today’s iconic De Bethune DB28 series, this energetic Swiss ultra-high-end watchmaker has released the De Bethune DB28 Steel Wheels Sapphire Tourbillon, which is limited to 10 pieces — it’s so beautiful. In addition to being obsessed with precisely cutting small parts and finishing them with excellent results, what I admire most about De Bethune is its indifference to norms or conventions. Although there are many “rebels” in the field of high-end luxury watches, when it comes to serious watch rebellion, few can match De Bethune.

When I talk about “don’t care”, I mean doing things, such as putting “steel” in the title of the watch, where steel accounts for a relatively small proportion of the watch’s overall metal or material composition. Or just avoid important small details in the press release, such as specifying how big the watch is (43 mm wide and 9.8 mm thick). I’m pretty sure De Bethune will not worry about the size of the watch. They made the case to suit their movements. As far as the DB28 is concerned, one of the reasons it is so famous is the hinged lugs that help it wrap around the package. This “comfort lug” system is actually a re-improvement of the DB28 Steel Wheels Sapphire Tourbillon, indicating that it is different from the DB28 case that De Bethune debuted ten years ago.

The case is made of highly polished titanium (which actually looks like steel), which is where De Bethune does a good job. They also have flame blue titanium, and you can see the parts on the dial, such as the outer ring, around the barrel, and the tourbillon frame. The concept of Steel Wheels is De Benthune’s view of skeletalization, which is quite elegant here. We see a lot of inspiration from contemporary luxury boat design here-which means it is elegant, sporty and practical. This is how to do futurism on your wrist. It looks good, but also technically attractive.

For some reasons, this DB28 is not a traditional hollow watch. The first reason is that it is not so “hollow”. The splints and wheels of the DB2019V5 movement are transparent, but still rigid in structure. Precisely cut transparent and blue sapphire crystals help to create this interesting effect, and the multi-layered depth of the dial makes this effect even more pleasing. The complete design of the designer’s hour and minute hands and the unique two-tone titanium DB28 hands ensure legibility. The manual winding movement consists of 272 parts and is equipped with a special 30-second tourbillon system.

The tourbillon is also a “high-beat” tourbillon, running at a frequency of 5 Hz (36,000 bph). This is the same as Zenith El Primero. The balance wheel itself is made of titanium and silicon, which is obviously the lightest De Bethune has ever made, weighing only 0.0001 grams! The entire tourbillon cage assembly itself weighs only 0.18 grams). Similarly, according to De Bethune, this is an import record for this category. Seeing the tourbillon intuitively in a watch like this is a more vivid experience, because it moves at twice the speed of a standard tourbillon, spinning a full circle every 30 seconds.

Where does the steel in the “Steel Wheel Sapphire Tourbillon Watch” come from? Well, as the product name implies, the wheels of the movement are mainly made of steel. Why is this a big deal? Although many watch cases are made of steel, steel is a very rare metal that can be used to make watch movements. Steel is a relatively challenging metal because it is very hard. For many machining purposes, brass is more preferred. Brass is relatively strong, but it is also much softer to machine. Most metal watch parts are brass. Steel can be polished beautifully, but it is also very strong. Considering that brass may be too fragile, even with a sapphire crystal holder, it may be the metal of choice for this thin structure.

Can you understand why watch nerds and design lovers love such luxury men watch? The movement inside the DB28 is like an elegant coach, but the movement is designed to run like an exotic supercar. Although this style is not suitable for everyone, no one can really deny the great advantages of this kind of creation, or easily question the value proposition of the price.

Porsche Design 1919 Globetimer UTC: When the world is your oyster

There is design, and then there is Porsche design. The former is universal, and the latter itself is a unique design language.

Porsche design began with iconic cars, but in the world of watches, Porsche is also a name with brilliant achievements. The reason can be summarized in two words: the eternal innovator.

Let’s start with the last word, innovator. Porsche Design was founded in 1972 by Professor Ferdinand Alexander Porsche, aiming to apply his designs to areas other than automobiles. The first watch he designed was Chrono I, which combined a matte black dial with a matte black case and bracelet.

Although common today, this monochromatic color scheme was not common at the time, especially for luxury goods.

In 1980, it launched a new chronograph in cooperation with IWC, providing us with the world’s first titanium case. Interestingly, although many of these watches are more than 30 years old, the vast majority of watches in this iteration of the Porsche Design brand still look refreshing today.

Titanium as a way of life is suitable for Porsche Design 1919 Globetimer UTC

Today, all Porsche Design watches are housed in titanium cases, not only because the metal’s gray tones are very suitable for technical design, but also because it is lightweight, corrosion-resistant, non-allergenic and comfortable to wear.

As revealed by the new Globetimer UTC in 1919, Porsche Design pushed this belief into the distance.

As the name suggests, 1919 Globetimer UTC is a world time watch-Porsche Design has a wealth of experience with this kind of watch, starting with the world time watch with alarm function co-created with IWC in the 1990s.

In 2007, Porsche Design went one step further and introduced a travel time watch that can switch time zones with the push of a button. This concept has now been further refined and became one of the main ingredients that made 1919 Globetimer UTC such a delightful timepiece.

It’s not a problem to travel or not to travel
This may surprise some people, but watching reporters like me spend a lot of time traveling, usually from one continent to another. Therefore, watches with additional time zones will be particularly well tested.

Quite a few two-time zone watches are not as easy to use as you might expect, almost as if they were designed by people who never travel. Some people emphasize that you can change the time zone “conveniently” using only the crown, but what they don’t tell you is that you will also mess up the current settings of other time zones when doing so, and then you need to correct it again.

Others bypass it with the corrector on the side of the case, but once you get up in the air, you will find that you are not carrying anything to push the corrector, so start looking for toothpicks, fine linings, or safety pins.

Porsche Design’s approach is simple: the brand’s engineers added two buttons on the side of the case. The one at the top advances the current time zone in one-hour increments, and the one at the bottom sets the time zone back to its original position in one-hour increments.

The minutes and seconds remain the same, so they are accurate, and the date will automatically change as the time zone changes. The Globetimer UTC of 1919 even included a day/night indicator, visible through a small opening in the dial.

Porsche Design is known for its watch’s outstanding dial legibility, and Globetimer UTC has not disappointed, all instructions are clear at a glance.

As part of the Porsche Design 1919 series, the shape of the “frame” lugs increased wearing comfort. The lightweight titanium case also increases the wearing comfort.

The diameter of the 1919 Globetimer UTC is 42 mm, which is almost the diameter of all dials. It is large—it looks bigger—but it looks like a watch that is about 2 mm smaller.

Porsche Design offers four different versions of the 1919 Globetimer UTC, one of which is the gold-plated version I mentioned earlier. The main difference between the variants is the color of the dial, which is available in brown, black or blue. The calfskin strap is good, but the titanium bracelet is better. Not only does it complement the overall design of the watch, but the structure of the bracelet is also very good, very suitable for the wrist.

Sports based on Sellita: disappointing or common sense?
Calibre Werk 04.110 is based on Sellita SW 200. Although there is nothing wrong with this movement, it is not the movement you would expect to find in a premium watches for sale from Porsche Design.

However, Porsche Design received praise for extensive modifications to the Sellita-based movement, adding its own ball bearings, two-way winding rotor and a patented second time zone module.

The movement is certified by the official COSC Observatory. Although this may not be enough to make everyone change their minds, it makes sense to use a proven and reliable movement rather than just make a movement at a high price just for it.

When it comes to travel watches, the 1919 Globetimer UTC is the best. It looks good, it is practical, and it is comfortable to wear on the wrist.

Globetimer UTC completed the work in 1919 and completed it with an undeniable sense of style, which stems from its unique “DNA”. In this regard, it is not only a valuable successor to the travel watch luxury that Porsche Design has been making since 1995, but it is also a good addition to the current collection.