Five Watches With Colorful Dials That Deserve Another Look

If you’re looking for a (reasonably affordable) do-it-all GMT diver before setting out on summer travel, the ever-popular Seiko Prospex SPB383 has made its way back into our digital storefront. Last week, we announced the audaciously architectural B/1 by the design duo Toledano & Chan, which will be officially available this Thursday. Feel free to sign up for the waitlist to get your reminder.

For those gearing up for the upcoming Monaco Grand Prix F1 race, this TAG Heuer Monaco carries the spirit of the original Monaco that Steve McQueen wore in ’71. On the opposite end of the style spectrum, this rose gold Piaget Antiplano maintains formal style free of any stuffiness with that quirky subdial at the 11 o’clock position. high quality replica watches
Five high quality replica watches With Colorful Dials That Deserve Another Look
I think I’ve made my preference for watches with colorful dials abundantly clear by now, so this topic sits close to my heart. I’ve always had a keen interest in color, and discovering the funky stone dials of the 1970s along with brands that experimented with color in the contemporary watch world was a place I felt drawn to, that initially sucked me into the larger hobby of watches. While I couldn’t possibly choose a favorite, or even ten or twenty favorite colorful watches, I have rounded up a selection of watches that play with color in bold and unexpected ways that I think deserve a thorough investigation (or reinvestigation for that matter).
A couple of watchmakers have debuted innovative laser-cut dials in the last year or so, but few execute it as well as this rendition of Oris’ quintessential ProPilot. The multicolored holographic effect was achieved thanks to the brand’s collaboration with the lab at ETH Zürich University, which helped to develop the laser engraving technique. When inspected up close, the shimmering gradient of teals, blues, and deep indigo reveals itself to be the result of a multitude of laser etchings on the titanium dial’s surface. The phenomenon captured at work is known as optical interference, which effectively controls the range of light waves that bounce off the surface of the dial. In fact, not a single pigment was used to create the hues of the dial – just clever laser work.
With its very 80s-chic vibrant teal green dial and bright red tipped second hand, the Verde Smeraldo remains a personal favorite among the Autodromo’s Group B series (though the Corsica Blue model might have it beat). Especially in combination with the dark grey tones on the printed dial and hands, the dark grey hue of the sporty integrated stainless steel bracelet and the bi-metallic (titanium and stainless steel) 39mm case, this iteration of the Group B particularly captures the line’s rebellious-meets-retro edge.
Aside from a few recent experiments with green dials and its revival of the orange A3648, Zenith isn’t a brand that first comes to mind when thinking about colorful dials. However, this bright red remix of the Defy Revival A3691 stands apart from its more neutrally-styled family members.
Because of Grand Seiko’s continuous fascination with infusing its pieces with elements inspired by the natural world, they have a particularly focused and unique take on color. You won’t find any frivolous dives into 80s-esque neon hues in its extensive catalog. Instead, you will find textural and color elements that maintain a sense of serene calm through the use of muted tones, cherry blossom pinks, powdery sky blues, or the occasional fiery red at its boldest expression.
Just about every summer in recent years, it’s an unwritten tradition for Zodiac to unleash new colorful iterations of its Super Sea Wolf line. This teal blue and neon green-hued model is among the 2024 class of vibrant new Super Sea Wolfs and inspires visions of tropical getaways on the horizon. You can almost hear the waves in the distance….
This ‘Sea Turtle’ iteration of the Super Sea Wolf Compression will be familiar in aesthetic and functionality to those who have any preexisting awareness of the line with its retro-inspired design and dive-ready specs. Measuring an approachable 40mm in diameter, this model is complete with the blocky mid-century indices marking the hours, a date window at three o’clock, lume-filled rectangular hands, 200 meters of water resistance, and a unidirectional bezel for timing dives safely. The sporty stainless steel bracelet this piece is paired with adds a touch more versatility, allowing you to wear its vibrant color poolside, at the beach, or a slightly more upscale dinner with equal ease. high quality replica watches

Chat About Their Top Lots From The Upcoming Geneva Sales

We’re back for another auction chinwag. This time we kept our picks (mostly) vintage, which makes sense when you consider  high quality replica watches who was part of this spirited debate. Tony Traina, vintage watch head and scholar; Rich Fordon, resident vintage specialist and client advisor (who will be attending the auctions to bid in person this weekend); and Malaika Crawford who is here for any sort of staff battle and partial to a little vintage design also.

We discuss this week’s Geneva auctions at Christie’s, Sotheby’s, and Phillips, as well as Antiquorum for an informal chat about trends, some of our favorite lots, and Malaika throwing in a  high quality replica watches Richard Mille-shaped surprise to try and get some less conservative takes.
Tony Traina: Okay. This is my favorite watch from the week. A pre-brand Franck Muller, as they call it. It just says “Franck” on the dial. It’s from before he officially started his Frank Muller brand. It’s a perpetual calendar and minute repeater – honestly, at a glance, it looks more like a Breguet. It’s got a case by Jean-Pierre Hagmann, the master casemaker who used to make cases for Patek, Blancpain, and others, and now makes them for Rexhep. Sotheby’s says they even confirmed with Hagmann that this is the only case like this he ever made for Franck (hence the “No. 1” on the caseback).
I love this  high quality replica watches. There are two up for sale this weekend, being the first two in a couple of years at auction [the other is at Sotehby’s]. I am really interested by this reference in general because they have been the same price for like 30 years. One of these sold for 14,000 euros in 2000 at Antiquorum. And here we’re at essentially the same pricing, although this one might go a little higher because of the double-signed dial. The pricing probably means the same people have been buying them, or the same segment of collectors have been buying them forever and nobody else really cares. I’m probably one of the people that care. The sizing is really good. I think people consider these watches to be a little too small but if you two remember the Boucheron Carrée that I owned for a little while, this is slightly larger.  high quality replica watches
First of all I think Antiquorum, top to bottom, has the best sale in Geneva. But because it’s like 600 lots there are bound to be a few steals. I talked about the Patek 605 World Time pocket watch on our podcast preview as my favorite big-money headliner from this season. For me, this might be one of those steals – it’s the watch I picked up right away when I walked into the Antiquorum office and hardly took off for the next hour. So many of these are chewed up and have restored dials, but this one’s got all its original charm and comes from the family of the original owner. It’s time to bring back the Bubbleback!

Longines Expands Its Bite-Sized Mini DolceVita Line

Especially paired with the more neutrally colored strap options, the Mini DolceVita strikes me as a kind of “Little Black Dress” of watches. You can throw it on with nearly anything without a second thought, and it will pretty much work. And I will argue that despite the general (well-warranted) misgivings of the quartz movements of the world that circulate in this community, sometimes, a girl just wants to throw on a watch without a second thought of winding or resetting. Sue me. I even heard from a fellow watch enthusiast recently that she often prefers quartz movements over mechanical – to each their own.
I will also admit quite transparently that I wasn’t sure about the whole double strap thing. In general, I default to a matching bracelet or a simple black leather strap if I’m in want of a change. I did have a chance to try the new Mini DolceVita out before it was officially released, and all of my skepticism faded to a distant memory when I put it on my wrist. Longines really did get a lot right with the strap design – it was easy to put on myself after a bit of mandatory fussing, and I found I could achieve a funky, cuff-like effect when I fastened it loosely. The term “double strap” is also a bit of a misnomer, given that it appears that there are three distinct layers of wrapped leather around the wrist, which somehow feels a bit more edgy-cool than the typical double strap. high quality replica watches
Also, the high quality replica watches price is working in the darling Mini DolceVita’s favor. I’ll concede that one’s barometer on what is affordable and what isn’t becomes skewed when looking at watches all day. Still, starting at just a hair above $1,600 (for the non-diamond version, that is), that price doesn’t strike me as totally absurd given the landscape of the watch world today, and this piece’s versatility. And, if the novelty of the double strap wears off, one can always swap it out for a bracelet and get back to the basics. high quality replica watches

Previewing Geneva’s Spring 2024 Auction Season

We’re back with another Wednesday episode of Hodinkee Radio. In addition to the podcast feed, each episode also has video, high quality replica watches so swing by Hodinkee’s YouTube channel (or watch below). Only want the audio? It’s being published to the same old Hodinkee Radio feed, so check your feeds or subscribe wherever you find your podcasts (might we recommend Apple Podcasts, Stitcher, Spotify, or TuneIn).
We took a week off after Watches & Wonders before hitting the highlights of our 21st Century Fantasy Watch Draft. high quality replica watches If you’re waiting for the results of your voting, you’ll have to wait a little longer – it just gives you enough time to get your votes in before we do the final tally. This week, we’re back talking auction action ahead of the upcoming Geneva spring auction season. To do so, we’ve invited two of our biggest auction lovers – Hodinkee founder Ben Clymer and editor/photographer extraordinaire Mark Kauzlarich – to talk about what they’re watching in the upcoming weeks. high quality replica watches

Mark Kauzlarich was in sunny Monaco for one of the early auctions ahead of the main Geneva season, so he gives us his thoughts on the results and the state of the market. Then, we jump right into some big lots from the main three auction houses, including some cool motorsports provenance. high quality replica watches Check it all out in this week’s episode. Oh, and one quick note: We’ll be on vacation next week, but stay tuned for more Hodinkee Radio soon.

Super Sea Wolf With An In-House GMT Movement

Unveiled on the Monday before Watches & Wonders kicked off in Geneva, Zodiac’s latest iteration of its signature Super Sea Wolf line was arguably a bit lost in the shuffle of the news and newness of it all. high quality replica watches Today, I bring you here to remedy that error and give the duo its chance to bask in the spotlight now that we’re all less distracted, and less bogged down with big watch world launches happening every minute simultaneously. Maybe it is the unpredictable nature of springtime in New York, the false promises of a few sunny afternoons only to be overtaken by frequent rain and cold fronts, but I am thinking longingly of summer days to come. This wistfulness for summer is also bleeding into my watch-perusing habits, too, I fear. While (obviously) any watch can be worn at any time of year depending on preference, some stand out as more equipped than others to handle the heat, and more fitting of the descriptive “summer-ready.” For me, the Super Sea Wolf collection is one of those lines up to the task. Its frequent use of bright colors, its dive-oriented specs ready for a jump into a pool, high quality replica watches and its (relatively) reasonable price tag work in its favor in this regard. This newly released duo ticks those boxes while upping the functionality ante with an additional GMT function. Of course, this isn’t the first time Zodiac has introduced a travel-oriented GMT function into the Super Sea Wolf Line with an in-house movement. But this is the first time the complication enters the brand’s core catalog in a non-limited edition capacity. This evolution is possible thanks to the brand’s membership in the Fossil group, which has its own dedicated manufacturer – Swiss Technology Production (STP). The Super Sea Wolf GMT has debuted in two distinct color palettes – one a versatile and surprisingly tame mix of grey, black, and silver-hues, and one in black and white with a splash of shockingly vibrant hot pink. I think it is more than obvious which model is my favorite. The overall design language is that of the familiar mid-century stylings since the Super Sea Wolf line is nothing if not heritage-inspired at its core. What sets these models apart from other members of the collection is the inclusion of the 24-hour bezel, broken up by color to indicate either day or night and its complimentary GMT hand. Both watches have a 20mm lug width and are paired with stainless steel bracelets, but feel free to swap it out with a more spring and summer-appropriate strap. Housed in the reasonably sized 40mm stainless steel case lies the aforementioned movement, which is the STP 7-20 GMT automatic caliber. high quality replica watches This Swiss-made movement features a sweeping seconds hand, stop seconds, quick date correction, a power reserve of 40 hours, and features, of course, the complication for the GMT hand. All-in-all, this duo is a welcome and logical expansion of the continuously popular Super Sea Wolf line, feeling right at home with other members of the model family. For those interested in finding an aesthetically funky, travel-friendly wrist companion for warmer weather, either one of the newly introduced Super Sea Wolf GMT models more than holds its own at its sub-$2,000 price range. high quality replica watches

Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “White Birch” SLGW003

Suppose you like manually wound watches, Grand Seiko, and have some money to spare. In that case, 2024 is going to be exciting for you, as the Japanese brand has introduced a new collection within the Evolution 9 range with a lovely new mechanical movement. The new movement is the caliber 9SA4, and the two watches to debut it are the Grand Seiko SLGW003 in titanium and the limited-edition SLGW002 in 18k rose gold. Let’s take a closer look. high quality replica watches

To understand the design and theme of these watches, you need to go back to the early days of Grand Seiko in the 1960s. At the time, Seiko also created a high-frequency (AKA “Hi-Beat”) 5Hz manually wound movement in watches of a similar design. According to Seiko, it has been many decades since the company produced a high-beat (5Hz or higher operational frequency) movement that was manually wound (versus automatic with a winding rotor). There isn’t too much of a technical reason why you might want a manually wound movement over an automatic, but what you get here is a thinner overall case profile and a visually enhanced viewing experience given that the exposed 9SA4 movement (visible through the sapphire crystal caseback) is quite nicely decorated.
The new caliber 9SA4 is based on Grand Seiko’s existing 9SA5 automatic that also operates at 5Hz. Grand Seiko claims that 40% of the movement design is new, including some new features and improved decoration. It is a very nice movement to look at, but importantly, Grand Seiko wanted it to be a nice movement to operate. A crucial new feature in the 9SA4 caliber was an upgraded manual winding system that delivers a more pleasant tactile experience. The winding system has been improved with beefed-up parts including a new “click” (a ratcheting part of the winding system) that makes manually winding the movement feel better. The new click is in the shape of a small bird’s head. According to Grand Seiko, this is inspired by the local Wagtail bird. Grand Seiko seems to want to connect most of its design choices to nature, with birds, mountains, the sea, and trees being favorite subjects of inspiration.

The 9SA4 movement operates at 5Hz with a long 80 hours of power reserve. Accuracy is well within chronometric performance range, and the dial indicates such with a central seconds indicator. To keep the dial clean, Grand Seiko places a handy power reserve indicator on the rear of the movement, which can be seen through the caseback. While not a record holder, the 9SA4 movement is just 4.15mm thick, allowing for an overall watch case thickness of just about 10mm. This is going to be a wonderful timepiece for those who really get joy out of winding their mechanical watches (even merely to fidget with when the watch is on the wrist). high quality replica watches
The two watches to debut the 9SA4 movement are part of Grand Seiko’s larger Evolution 9 range but certainly dress in their style. The case and dial design are very familiar to anyone who has experience with the brand, and they hearken back to designs from the 1960s. The cases of the SLGW002 and SLGW003 watches are 38.6mm wide, 9.95mm thick, and water resistant to 30 meters. I know this is a manually wound movement without a screw-down crown, but it would have been nice to offer at least 50 meters of water resistance given that Grand Seiko is always best when it offers both a lovely design and enhanced durability when compared to the competition.
For the dials, the silvered faces are given a familiar texture that Grand Seiko calls “white birch,” to evoke the bark of the birch tree. It works rather well as a backdrop for the elegant hands and hour markers, though I am getting a bit exhausted by seeing more or less the same types of dials and textures from the brand all the time. Grand Seiko always has a lot of novelty, and for that, we appreciate the brand greatly — but novices quickly become confused about how to engage with the brand since so many of the company’s watches are visually relatively similar. I would be quite curious to hear from readers how you perceive the novelty of these otherwise very attractive and comfortable timepieces
For the launch of the caliber 9SA4 manually wound movement, Grand Seiko is launching the non-limited-edition titanium SLGW003 and the limited edition of 80 pieces SLGW002 in 18k rose gold. Grand Seiko uses a special hardened titanium for the SLGW003 that has a beautiful luster and much more durability than standard titanium. For me, this is the choice model given the high price delta between it and the limited-edition version in gold. Attached to both watches are black alligator straps with Grand Seiko deployant clasps in a matching metal. Grand Seiko says the new 9SA4-equipped watches will begin shipping in August 2024. high quality replica watches

Paying Tribute To Earth Day

Last week, the blacked-out and very British Bremont x Bamford Aurora Supermarine returned to our digital storefront, along with the unconventional Ressence Type 8S in sage green. Additionally, TAG Heuer’s smallest take on its Solargraph Date has arrived in a 34mm duo in shades of dark blue and aqua. high quality replica watches

On the pre-owned side of the shop, this SBGR061 is an if-you-know-you-know collectible version of the beloved Grand Seiko Elegance Automatic. For Vacheron fans, this Historiques Cornes De Vache is as complex on the inside as it is beautiful on the outside.
Happy Earth Day to all my fellow terrestrial-bound watch enthusiasts out there. Wishing you all a day of successful recycling, tree-hugging, strolling in awe through nature’s bounty, or however you so choose to celebrate. high quality replica watches

Admittedly, the watch industry at large does not immediately come to mind when the topic of sustainability arises. Perhaps one could argue that the act of making pieces made to last a lifetime, or even beyond the lifetime of its wearer, is inherently more environmentally conscious than the proliferation of one-time-use objects that haunt today’s consumption-obsessed fast fashion industry. One could also argue that this is a column about watches, and I should leave the philosophical ramblings at home.

Anyway, whether you are firm in your belief that any claims of environmental responsibility are an act of savvy marketing or not, the simple act of calling into question the efficacy of production does, at the very least, start the conversation, and begin tipping the scale in the right direction. Perfect it is not, but it’s what we got. In the spirit of giving credit where credit is due, I’ve rounded up five watches across our digital storefront that place sustainability at the forefront of their design or production process. Away we go….
While I tend to finish these roundups with the most flashy picks, I’m switching it up a bit. Though the story behind the Mille Miglia tends to focus on the connection between the idyllic Italian race of its namesake and chronograph functionalities, there’s a lot to be said about the use of the brand’s recently developed Lucent Steel alloy itself – which just so happens to be made of up to 80% recycled steel. high quality replica watches

Lucent Steel is a part of Chopard’s effort to move towards a more sustainable interpretation of modern luxury. The brand has been incorporating the alloy into many of its contemporary collections, and this rendition of the Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph is the first time the material has been used within this line. The unique recycled composition itself imparts a bright, almost white, sheen to its appearance and boosts its scratch-resistant properties as well as its general luminosity as compared to steel alone. This take on the Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph has a versatile diameter of 40.5mm, and its black dial sports an engine-turned motif that is well-suited to a watch made for the race track. The COSC-certified automatic chronograph movement lies within which has a 54-hour power reserve. Additionally, this model is also available with a red sunray dial if that’s more your speed. high quality replica watches
Now pivoting to the most affordable watch on this list, this rendition of the brand’s signature DW-5000 series has received an upcycled twist. Released as part of G-SHOCK’s 41st birthday bash, the G5600BG-1 is a part of the brand’s efforts to be more sustainably minded in its manufacturing process. high quality replica watches

The multi-colored, marbled surface of the band and bezel on this model is the physical manifestation of its recycled composition. Here, scrap resin from previous G-SHOCK designs has been transformed into a powdered form and is then mixed in with matte black resin to achieve a uniquely varied and colorful finish. Its style and functionality are signature G-SHOCK, complete with the retro octagonal case and the suite of multi-functional timekeeping features that have been foundational to the brand from the beginning. Oh, and it’s solar-powered. Of all the luxury watch brands out there, Oris is one of the most unarguably adept at incorporating a sense of environmental awareness into its overarching ethos. Whether it’s making dials out of recycled materials or creating limited editions to bring light to certain environmentally focussed charities, an eco-conscious mindset is a key pillar of the contemporary Oris identity. Since we have quite a few models from Oris with recycled dials, I think I’ll just pivot to go through them rapid-fire. high quality replica watches
Given that this limited edition model has a few distinct details that set it apart from the typical Aquis line, it’s only fitting to break it up from the section above. This model falls into the category of environmentally oriented collaborative models and was created in partnership with the Common Wadden Sea Secretariat to bring attention to the group’s conservation efforts. The standout feature of this limited edition, without a doubt, is the unique circular date ring and small seconds sundial at the dial’s center, as well as its color palette directly inspired by the waters of the Wadden Sea. Of course, the Dat Watt Limited Edition is equipped with fitting dive-ready specs, including 300 meters of water resistance. The Oris 743 automatic caliber lies within a power reserve of 38 hours, and each model features a caseback engraved with its unique serial number.
As promised, I’m wrapping up this roundup with a pick for the Grand Seiko fans out there in the form of the SBGJ259. Though it might not have the upcycled construction methods similar to the other models on this list, Grand Seiko is defined largely by its nature-inspired dial designs, so it would be remiss of me not to include one for Earth Day.

With its vibrant green color and unique vertical pattern inspired by bamboo forests, the dial on the SBGJ259 is a personal favorite among the contemporary Grand Seiko catalog. The 40mm diameter is approachable, and the overall design is streamlined and legible with just the right amount of heritage-inspired touches. The Hi-Beat 9S86 movement lies within, powering the GMT hand and imparting a power reserve of 55 hours, and you’re free to observe it in action through the sapphire crystal caseback.

Cartier Santos De Cartier Dual Time

It’s Watches & Wonders, which means there are a whole lot of new releases from Cartier, including one that feels truly made for yours truly – the new Santos De Cartier Dual Time. Offered in a single spec, the new Santos Dual Time has a grey dial and comes with both a bracelet and a grey alligator strap. With a straightforward dual-time display tucked into a subdial at six, this is an exciting release that adds a touch of complication and international intrigue to the Santos we know and love. high quality replica watches
Coming from the larger side of the Santos collection, the new Santos Dual Time’s steel case is 40.2mm wide, 10.1mm thick, and just 47.5mm lug-to-lug. It is water resistant to 100 meters, and the case has been designed to integrate Cartier’s QuickSwitch systems for both of the included options (the steel bracelet and the grey leather strap). Additionally, Cartier has fitted the steel bracelet with the brand’s SmartLink system, which allows for micro-adjustment of the bracelet without tools. high quality replica watches

Inside, and supporting the dual time function, we find Cartier using a customized movement based on the Sellita SW330 (I’ve requested more information on the movement, but it doesn’t appear that much more is available at this time). That said, we know the SW330 well – it is an automatic movement with a rate of 4 Hz and a power reserve of 48 hours. Entirely controlled by the crown, the movement offers time, date, and a subdial that shows a 12-hour display of time in a second time zone along with an AM/PM indication for that time zone. A steel Santos with a grey dial AND a dual time complication? Maybe Cartier confused my birthday with Watches & Wonders, but I’m certainly not complaining. In-person and on the wrist, this Santos wears very closely to the standard large-sized Santos, with a large and flat footprint held by the short lugs. Much of the wrist presence is commanded by the highly polished steel bezel that frames the silver tones of the dial. With plenty of heft from the full steel bracelet, this large sizing is especially sporty, and the time display largely focuses on local time, with the second time zone being relegated to the subdial and the truly tiny day/night indicator at the 12 o’clock position on that subdial. That said, even with the array of silver and grey coloring, I didn’t find the local or away times difficult to read. high quality replica watches

As a first execution for the new Santos Dual Time, I dig the format and the focus on adding an additional time zone to such a versatile design, and I’d be very keen to see the brand tuck this movement and layout into smaller cases and other dial iterations.

Cartier Reflection De Cartier

Cartier strikes with another bangle/cuff watch-hybrid release. The new Reflection de Cartier is closer in style to the more traditional take on high jewelry watch design than its Baignoire bangle cousin. But its essence is aligned with the same overall message: women have a voracious appetite for modern, sculptural and chunky gold jewelry with a time-telling twist.
Available in plain yellow gold, plain rose gold and in three gem-set on white gold options, the quartz powered watch is concealed and set inside the opening of the cuff. The “reflection” is made on the opposite side of the cuff’s opening, onto the polished gold surface, creating a sort of backwards time-telling optical illusion. Clearly Cartier has been leaning into magic tricks these past few years. We’ve seen the Clash [Un]limited, a watch with a bracelet that has moving vertebrae, and the Cousin, a watch that breathes or squishes if you wanna get technical.
There are plenty of gems in the Reflection collection: an all white diamond-set model for the traditionalist; a model with a peacock motif, made up of chrysoprases, obsidian, emeralds, Paraiba tourmalines with iridescent blue-green lacquer – for the bold; and an opal, amethyst, spessartite garnet and tiger’s eye set cuff – for the even bolder.
Despite three of these five watches fitting neatly into the high jewelry watch category, the remaining rose and yellow gold models belong to a more modern and nuanced variety of watch design for women. The Reflection de Cartier is a slightly bolder counterpart to the Baignoire bangle. It’s a heavier and more geometric statement, making it a worthy competitor to the Bulgari Serpenti or a vintage Piaget cuff.
No doubt Cartier is riding high on the success of the Baignoire bangle. Their ability to market watches directly at women is currently unparalleled by any of the big brands. The Reflection definitely has less of a commercial appeal than its bangle predecessor and that’s what I love about it. It’s experimental, it’s a standout piece rather than a blend into your bracelet stack piece. I say it’s just plain glamorous. And who doesn’t want that from La Maison Cartier?

Here’s All the New Watches from Patek Philippe, From Denim-Strapped Aquanauts to New World Timers

At Watches & Wonders, Patek Philippe turns its focus to rose gold, global travel and the toughest material in menswear.

Every spring, new releases from the famous independent top luxury replica watches brand Patek Philippe are almost as anticipated as new releases from Rolex. This year, Patek Philippe has updated a perennial favorite, which seems to be a trend across brands in Watches & Wonders 2024. For some brands, this move may seem too conservative, but for Patek Philippe – a storied independent brand with a catalog full of genre-defining designs – updating a classic may do more to appeal to collectors than launching a new, bold watch satisfy.

If we had to sum up what Patek Philippe has to offer this year, it would be this: there’s a lot of rose gold, a surprising amount of denim—yes, like blue jeans—but no new Nautilus.

Patek Philippe has made some interesting moves over the past five years or so, preserving its history and tradition rather than giving in to the overwhelming demand for popular watches. For example, in late 2021, Patek Philippe canceled the stainless steel Nautilus 5711, a move that could be read not only as a disdain for the one-piece steel bracelet watch trend, but also as an attempt to avoid being overly identified with a 1970s model. Audemars Piguet owns the Royal Oak. Instead, Patek Philippe has shifted its outdoor focus back to the Calatrava collection, specifically 2022’s 5226G Field Watch, the only Patek Philippe watch in history to actually see military action. In this way, Patek Philippe established a more accurate history for itself.

Only within this context can one truly understand what Patek Philippe is releasing in 2024, which is undoubtedly a statement of its storied past. Launched this year, the 5236P in-line perpetual calendar watch with a rose gold opal (also known as salmon) dial is emblematic of this assertion. Th 5236 is a traditional style perpetual calendar with a completely unique yet understated four-disc complication that displays the day of the week, date and month. Or consider 2024’s Aquanauts, which deliberately break the norms of the integrated-bracelet watch category, here available in a cool blue-gray colorway paired with denim. Even the paved Auqanaut retains the core design elements of the now highly regarded model.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5980 60G Aquanaut Flyback Chronograph
As if we needed further proof that Patek Philippe is actively creating a more casual vibe in its catalog over the past few years, denim straps on major complications like this Aquanaut Flyback Chronograph Sealed case. Take a deep breath and think about it: Patek Philippe wearing Levi’s! Of course, the strap is expertly woven from premium calfskin, not to mention it’s one of the most sought-after watches in modern history.

This strap probably wouldn’t work if it weren’t for the perfect match to the opal blue-gray dial set in a massive block of white gold and accented with white gold markers and hands. If that’s your style, we also have a matching set of cufflinks available – a must-have in our opinion if you’re looking to buy the Ref. 5980 60G.

The CH 28-520 C/522 movement is a self-winding flyback chronograph with totalizing via a concentric scale on the subdial at 6 o’clock. Continuing Patek Philippe’s flair for transforming highly complex functions into minimalist styles, this flyback watch hides its chronograph function and presents a more elegant appearance than the standard two- or three-hand versions. Considering Patek Philippe is now using some of the toughest materials in menswear, this extra level of elegance is a very good thing.

Case size: 40.5mm
Case material: white gold
Water resistance: 30 meters
Strap: Woven denim pattern on calfskin
Movement: CH 28-520 C/522 flyback chronograph with date

Patek Philippe Ref. 5164G Aquanaut Travel Time
We’ve already seen this rose gold watch with a brown dial and matching brown rubber strap, so here we see a cool colorway with a white gold case and steel blue dial and strap. For lovers of travel time complications, this model will be great news.

The 26-330 SC FUS movement is a very useful movement for world travelers. Dual time zones are available on the main dial, and the local hour hand can be jumped to the desired position simply using the left button. Meanwhile, the hollow hour hand remains intact regardless of your home time. One of the unique and most useful features of this movement is the inclusion of dual AM/PM indicators, clearly marked “local” and “local”. Before long, reading the time twice on the main watch face will become intuitive so you don’t accidentally call someone in the middle of the night.

Case size: 40.8mm x 10.2mm
Case material: white gold
Water resistance: 120 meters
Strap: rubber

Patek Philippe Ref. 5269R Aquanaut Travel Time
Yes, it’s quartz, and while that may disappoint some die-hard fans of haute horlogerie, others will love its ease of use, incredible precision, and slim 8.77mm case. Rose gold and slate blue contrast beautifully here, and the 38.8mm case is suitable for wrists of all sizes. We even wonder, as men’s watch sizes continue to shrink, this Ref. 5269R won’t appeal to those people. After all, it’s not like Patek Philippe painted it pink, but a great blue.

Of course, the brilliance of the Travel Time series is the ability to easily track time at home and away from home. When the hollow hand hides behind the solid hour hand, it’s time to go home. Pulling the crown out to position one allows you to move the local hour hand (solid hour hand) forward or backward as desired. The AM/PM indicator below the 6 o’clock mark tells you whether it’s day or night in your home, and we think the lack of a date window is actually correct; it’s got symmetry, clean lines, and the ultimate luxury of not caring about the date, Because it’s travel time.

Case size: 38.8mm x 8.77mm
Case material: rose gold
Water resistance: 30 meters
Strap: rubber
Movement: E23-250 S FUS 24H quartz movement

Patek Philippe Ref. 5520RG Alarm Travel Time
For fans of Patek Philippe Travel Time watches, when the Ref. 5520P hit the market in 2019. These additions also make the Ref. 5520P possible. 5520 moves from the “complication” category into the rare “grand complication” of Patek Philippe. This may be a semantic difference, but we think adding a working mechanical alarm to an already very complex watch is quite distinctive.

Alarm watches became a trend in the decades after World War II, and recent decades have also seen a minor resurgence in mechanical alarm complications from brands such as Jaeger-LeCoultre, Breguet, Richard Mille and Hublot. But few of these products are as eye-catching as Patek Philippe’s alarm clock complication, as the AL 30-660 SC FUS movement is a joy to use, look at and listen to. The Travel Time collection has always provided an easy way to track dual time zones abroad, and the addition of an alarm complication does not tarnish this elegant complication. Particularly good is the digital display of the alarm time setting below the 12 o’clock position, which allows for accurate alarms compared to more common rotating alarm clocks mounted on a central spindle.

For 2024, Patek Philippe brings us the 5220RG, a lovely rose gold version with a gray sunburst dial and plenty of luminous accents throughout. This colorway adds even more old-world charm to this already vintage-style watch.

Case size: 42.2mm x 11.6mm
Case material: rose gold
Water resistance: 30 meters
Strap: leather

Patek Philippe Ref. 5738 1R Oval
Let’s start with the solid rose gold link bracelet, a first for the modern Golden Ellipse and certainly a throwback to the past. Braided bracelets have become somewhat lost in the tool-watch-obsessed 21st century, but some of the most detailed and beautiful work in watchmaking hangs from the case. There are 363 individual elements in the bracelet, held together by an engraved clasp that is adjustable in three positions. Bravo, Patek Philippe – you’re bringing home a lost art!

The watch is reasonably sized at 34.5mm in diameter. This may sound small to some, but oversized oval and rectangular watches don’t always look so elegant. Furthermore, the expected effect of wearing such a watch is to find yourself wearing a beautiful bracelet that also happens to have a watch attached to its center. Not that the watch here is an afterthought, but it’s certainly not as dominant as the Calatrava or Nautilus.

All of this suggests – and perhaps unintentionally – that Patek Philippe may have just hit the unisex bullseye.

Case dimensions: 34.5mm x 39.5mm x 5.9mm
Case and bracelet material: rose gold
Water resistance: 30 meters
Movement: Caliber 240 manual winding chronograph

Patek Philippe Ref. 5330G World Time and Date
If the face of this watch looks familiar, that’s because its engravings and basic layout are derived from the acclaimed 5935 World Time Split-Second Chronograph Grande Complication, and because this watch was launched in 2023 Limited release in Tokyo. In general collections, the Ref. 5330G completes Patek Philippe’s world timepieces, with casual styles becoming increasingly common in its catalogue.

Powered by the 240 HU automatic movement, the 5330G offers 24-hour format and AM/PM indication in all 24 time zones. When you press the actuator at 10 o’clock, you will simultaneously advance the hour hand one hour and the city disc 1/24 of a turn, keeping the watch in line with local time while showing you the relative time around the piece precise.

Case size: 40mm x 11.57mm
Case material: white gold
Water resistance: 30 meters
Strap: denim woven leather
Movement: Calibner 240HU C

Patek Philippe Ref. 5160/500R Retorgrade Perpetual Calendar
In 1925, Patek Philippe released a gorgeous, highly engraved gold perpetual calendar watch commonly known as the “REF”. 91975. This watch happened to be the world’s first perpetual calendar watch housed in a small case with lugs and strapped to the wrist, which they eventually called a “wristwatch,” a novel concept in 1925. Patek Philippe revived the spirit of the 91975 in 1925. 5160 from the 2010s, this watch may look a bit over the top in high-resolution digital images, but (we can confirm) it’s surprisingly quiet and elegant in action. In fact, one of our staff writers unexpectedly developed an obsession with the white gold Ref.1 watch. The first time I put it on my wrist, it was numbered 5160.

In 2024, Patek Philippe returns again with the Ref. 5160, equipped with a rose gold “gentleman’s case”, using the original hinged bottom cover and silver-plated opal dial, with an elegant layout that is comparable to any of Patek Philippe’s high-end complications. The modern 5160 features black Breguet numerals, large spade-shaped hour hands, and red-tipped hands that point to a retrograde date arc that leaves room for a traditional-style moon phase window at the bottom of the dial. This timepiece is part of Patek Philippe’s Rare Handmade Collection.

Case size: 38mm
Case material: rose gold
Water resistance: 30 meters
Strap: crocodile leather
Movement: Automatic 26-330 S QR with perpetual calendar, moon phase, leap year, date, day of the week, hours, minutes, seconds

Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5236P

referee. Introduced in 2021, the 5236P is unique in that it displays the day, date and month intuitively through a window with four discs at 12 o’clock (two discs are needed to display the two digits of the date). The self-winding caliber 31-260 requires an additional 118 components just for the display, which operates four discs on the same plane in a small space. Like many elegant, simple products (like the iPhone), the 5236G has a lot of intricate work going on beneath the surface.

This complication watch is housed in a 41.3 mm platinum case that is 11.07 mm thick and includes crystal. We already have the Ref. 5236P on the wrist, and while the platinum creates some weight, the wearing experience is elegant and surprisingly streamlined. Of course, what sets this year’s version apart is the rose gold opal dial, or, as some opinionated collectors call it, a true salmon dial. While other brands use copper, solid gold, and different coatings to achieve the elusive salmon color, Patek Philippe uses a traditional method that dates back to the days of pocket watches.

What’s unconventional here are the charcoal white gold baton markers and hands. Thanks to this interesting choice, the dial has a stealthy 21st century feel that might feel more at home on a less traditionally styled watch. However, the charcoal elements combined with the black print throughout the dial create a quiet clarity that enhances the minimalist style of this understated perpetual calendar.

Case size: 41.5mm
Case material: platinum
Strap: brown alligator leather
Movement: Caliber 31-260 plug-in perpetual calendar

Patek Philippe Ref. 5396G Annual Calendar Moon Phase
This watch debuted in 1996 and has become one of Patek Philippe’s flagship models. As one would expect, there have been multiple iterations over the years, including models in platinum, yellow and rose gold, as well as models with Breguet numerals, Barton markers, white dials, gray dials, black dials, sector dials and soon. This year, Patek Philippe launched a white gold version with a dark blue sunburst smoked dial – something not often seen on Patek Philippe. Still in a compact 38.5mm case, it’s just 11.2mm thick and is water-resistant to 30 meters, which is impressive for a product of this type.

The star of the show is always the tried and tested caliber 26-330 S QA LU 24H. What it boils down to is the annual calendar (which indicates the day, date and month), moon phase and a secondary 24-hour indicator on the subdial at 6 o’clock. The latter serves as an AM/PM indicator and emulates the classic look of the round date calendar of the now vintage Patek Philippe Reference 3448 Annual Calendar, which inspired the modern 5396 we see here. It’s no surprise that Patek Philippe maintains a timeless dial layout, even as the company moves functions around the dial, as many of Patek Philippe’s mid-century designs are masterpieces of clarity and balance. It is no exaggeration to say that the Ref. 5396P lives up to this lofty description.

Case size: 38.5mm x 11.2mm
Case material: white gold
Strap: crocodile leather
Movement: Automatic Caliber 26-330 S QA LU 24-hour annual calendar with moon phases

Patek Philippe Ref. 5268-461G Aquanaut Luce High Jewelry
Let’s crunch the numbers: the white gold watch is set with 72 baguette sapphires (5.29 ct), 38 baguette diamonds (2.03 ct) and 160 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.71 ct) and measures 38.8 mm and is only 9.1 mm high. , water-resistant to 30 meters and an automatic movement with a 45-hour power reserve. Yes, all of this is mounted on a rubber strap – which, at the end of the day, probably makes the Ref. 5268-461G the strongest case yet made of rubber as a luxury material.

It’s a dazzling watch, but we’re struck by how conservative the color palette is despite the endless bling here. We particularly like the way Patek Philippe recreated the three-dimensional grid (or globe) in the center of the dial, giving this watch a distinctly Aquanaut look. Stones often obscure the essence of the original design, but this stone brings it to life. Last year’s rainbow and orange versions were gorgeous, but Patek Philippe has reined itself in and delivered what is sure to become a classic collector’s item into the 2020s. The piece is worth over $250,000 and will likely be the only piece seen at any party.

Case size: 38.8mm x 9.1mm
Case material: white gold
Water resistance: 30 meters
Strap: rubber
Movement: 26-330 S self-winding mechanical chronograph movement only

Patek Philippe Ref. 4910 1201R 20-4
Since 1999, Patek Philippe’s ultra-feminine Twenty-4 collection has been available in smaller sizes, often with quartz movements, precious metals and gemstones. Launching this year is a rose gold cuff watch with a purple lacquered dial with a lovely embossed pattern that is sure to sparkle alongside the diamonds and gold. The case and bracelet are fully polished and set with 34 brilliant-cut diamonds weighing 0.63 carats.

Case size: 25.1 x 30 mm
Case material: rose gold
Water resistance: 30 meters
Bracelet: solid rose gold
Movement: E 15 quartz chronograph only