Super Sea Wolf With An In-House GMT Movement

Unveiled on the Monday before Watches & Wonders kicked off in Geneva, Zodiac’s latest iteration of its signature Super Sea Wolf line was arguably a bit lost in the shuffle of the news and newness of it all. high quality replica watches Today, I bring you here to remedy that error and give the duo its chance to bask in the spotlight now that we’re all less distracted, and less bogged down with big watch world launches happening every minute simultaneously. Maybe it is the unpredictable nature of springtime in New York, the false promises of a few sunny afternoons only to be overtaken by frequent rain and cold fronts, but I am thinking longingly of summer days to come. This wistfulness for summer is also bleeding into my watch-perusing habits, too, I fear. While (obviously) any watch can be worn at any time of year depending on preference, some stand out as more equipped than others to handle the heat, and more fitting of the descriptive “summer-ready.” For me, the Super Sea Wolf collection is one of those lines up to the task. Its frequent use of bright colors, its dive-oriented specs ready for a jump into a pool, high quality replica watches and its (relatively) reasonable price tag work in its favor in this regard. This newly released duo ticks those boxes while upping the functionality ante with an additional GMT function. Of course, this isn’t the first time Zodiac has introduced a travel-oriented GMT function into the Super Sea Wolf Line with an in-house movement. But this is the first time the complication enters the brand’s core catalog in a non-limited edition capacity. This evolution is possible thanks to the brand’s membership in the Fossil group, which has its own dedicated manufacturer – Swiss Technology Production (STP). The Super Sea Wolf GMT has debuted in two distinct color palettes – one a versatile and surprisingly tame mix of grey, black, and silver-hues, and one in black and white with a splash of shockingly vibrant hot pink. I think it is more than obvious which model is my favorite. The overall design language is that of the familiar mid-century stylings since the Super Sea Wolf line is nothing if not heritage-inspired at its core. What sets these models apart from other members of the collection is the inclusion of the 24-hour bezel, broken up by color to indicate either day or night and its complimentary GMT hand. Both watches have a 20mm lug width and are paired with stainless steel bracelets, but feel free to swap it out with a more spring and summer-appropriate strap. Housed in the reasonably sized 40mm stainless steel case lies the aforementioned movement, which is the STP 7-20 GMT automatic caliber. high quality replica watches This Swiss-made movement features a sweeping seconds hand, stop seconds, quick date correction, a power reserve of 40 hours, and features, of course, the complication for the GMT hand. All-in-all, this duo is a welcome and logical expansion of the continuously popular Super Sea Wolf line, feeling right at home with other members of the model family. For those interested in finding an aesthetically funky, travel-friendly wrist companion for warmer weather, either one of the newly introduced Super Sea Wolf GMT models more than holds its own at its sub-$2,000 price range. high quality replica watches

Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “White Birch” SLGW003

Suppose you like manually wound watches, Grand Seiko, and have some money to spare. In that case, 2024 is going to be exciting for you, as the Japanese brand has introduced a new collection within the Evolution 9 range with a lovely new mechanical movement. The new movement is the caliber 9SA4, and the two watches to debut it are the Grand Seiko SLGW003 in titanium and the limited-edition SLGW002 in 18k rose gold. Let’s take a closer look. high quality replica watches

To understand the design and theme of these watches, you need to go back to the early days of Grand Seiko in the 1960s. At the time, Seiko also created a high-frequency (AKA “Hi-Beat”) 5Hz manually wound movement in watches of a similar design. According to Seiko, it has been many decades since the company produced a high-beat (5Hz or higher operational frequency) movement that was manually wound (versus automatic with a winding rotor). There isn’t too much of a technical reason why you might want a manually wound movement over an automatic, but what you get here is a thinner overall case profile and a visually enhanced viewing experience given that the exposed 9SA4 movement (visible through the sapphire crystal caseback) is quite nicely decorated.
The new caliber 9SA4 is based on Grand Seiko’s existing 9SA5 automatic that also operates at 5Hz. Grand Seiko claims that 40% of the movement design is new, including some new features and improved decoration. It is a very nice movement to look at, but importantly, Grand Seiko wanted it to be a nice movement to operate. A crucial new feature in the 9SA4 caliber was an upgraded manual winding system that delivers a more pleasant tactile experience. The winding system has been improved with beefed-up parts including a new “click” (a ratcheting part of the winding system) that makes manually winding the movement feel better. The new click is in the shape of a small bird’s head. According to Grand Seiko, this is inspired by the local Wagtail bird. Grand Seiko seems to want to connect most of its design choices to nature, with birds, mountains, the sea, and trees being favorite subjects of inspiration.

The 9SA4 movement operates at 5Hz with a long 80 hours of power reserve. Accuracy is well within chronometric performance range, and the dial indicates such with a central seconds indicator. To keep the dial clean, Grand Seiko places a handy power reserve indicator on the rear of the movement, which can be seen through the caseback. While not a record holder, the 9SA4 movement is just 4.15mm thick, allowing for an overall watch case thickness of just about 10mm. This is going to be a wonderful timepiece for those who really get joy out of winding their mechanical watches (even merely to fidget with when the watch is on the wrist). high quality replica watches
The two watches to debut the 9SA4 movement are part of Grand Seiko’s larger Evolution 9 range but certainly dress in their style. The case and dial design are very familiar to anyone who has experience with the brand, and they hearken back to designs from the 1960s. The cases of the SLGW002 and SLGW003 watches are 38.6mm wide, 9.95mm thick, and water resistant to 30 meters. I know this is a manually wound movement without a screw-down crown, but it would have been nice to offer at least 50 meters of water resistance given that Grand Seiko is always best when it offers both a lovely design and enhanced durability when compared to the competition.
For the dials, the silvered faces are given a familiar texture that Grand Seiko calls “white birch,” to evoke the bark of the birch tree. It works rather well as a backdrop for the elegant hands and hour markers, though I am getting a bit exhausted by seeing more or less the same types of dials and textures from the brand all the time. Grand Seiko always has a lot of novelty, and for that, we appreciate the brand greatly — but novices quickly become confused about how to engage with the brand since so many of the company’s watches are visually relatively similar. I would be quite curious to hear from readers how you perceive the novelty of these otherwise very attractive and comfortable timepieces
For the launch of the caliber 9SA4 manually wound movement, Grand Seiko is launching the non-limited-edition titanium SLGW003 and the limited edition of 80 pieces SLGW002 in 18k rose gold. Grand Seiko uses a special hardened titanium for the SLGW003 that has a beautiful luster and much more durability than standard titanium. For me, this is the choice model given the high price delta between it and the limited-edition version in gold. Attached to both watches are black alligator straps with Grand Seiko deployant clasps in a matching metal. Grand Seiko says the new 9SA4-equipped watches will begin shipping in August 2024. high quality replica watches

Paying Tribute To Earth Day

Last week, the blacked-out and very British Bremont x Bamford Aurora Supermarine returned to our digital storefront, along with the unconventional Ressence Type 8S in sage green. Additionally, TAG Heuer’s smallest take on its Solargraph Date has arrived in a 34mm duo in shades of dark blue and aqua. high quality replica watches

On the pre-owned side of the shop, this SBGR061 is an if-you-know-you-know collectible version of the beloved Grand Seiko Elegance Automatic. For Vacheron fans, this Historiques Cornes De Vache is as complex on the inside as it is beautiful on the outside.
Happy Earth Day to all my fellow terrestrial-bound watch enthusiasts out there. Wishing you all a day of successful recycling, tree-hugging, strolling in awe through nature’s bounty, or however you so choose to celebrate. high quality replica watches

Admittedly, the watch industry at large does not immediately come to mind when the topic of sustainability arises. Perhaps one could argue that the act of making pieces made to last a lifetime, or even beyond the lifetime of its wearer, is inherently more environmentally conscious than the proliferation of one-time-use objects that haunt today’s consumption-obsessed fast fashion industry. One could also argue that this is a column about watches, and I should leave the philosophical ramblings at home.

Anyway, whether you are firm in your belief that any claims of environmental responsibility are an act of savvy marketing or not, the simple act of calling into question the efficacy of production does, at the very least, start the conversation, and begin tipping the scale in the right direction. Perfect it is not, but it’s what we got. In the spirit of giving credit where credit is due, I’ve rounded up five watches across our digital storefront that place sustainability at the forefront of their design or production process. Away we go….
While I tend to finish these roundups with the most flashy picks, I’m switching it up a bit. Though the story behind the Mille Miglia tends to focus on the connection between the idyllic Italian race of its namesake and chronograph functionalities, there’s a lot to be said about the use of the brand’s recently developed Lucent Steel alloy itself – which just so happens to be made of up to 80% recycled steel. high quality replica watches

Lucent Steel is a part of Chopard’s effort to move towards a more sustainable interpretation of modern luxury. The brand has been incorporating the alloy into many of its contemporary collections, and this rendition of the Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph is the first time the material has been used within this line. The unique recycled composition itself imparts a bright, almost white, sheen to its appearance and boosts its scratch-resistant properties as well as its general luminosity as compared to steel alone. This take on the Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph has a versatile diameter of 40.5mm, and its black dial sports an engine-turned motif that is well-suited to a watch made for the race track. The COSC-certified automatic chronograph movement lies within which has a 54-hour power reserve. Additionally, this model is also available with a red sunray dial if that’s more your speed. high quality replica watches
Now pivoting to the most affordable watch on this list, this rendition of the brand’s signature DW-5000 series has received an upcycled twist. Released as part of G-SHOCK’s 41st birthday bash, the G5600BG-1 is a part of the brand’s efforts to be more sustainably minded in its manufacturing process. high quality replica watches

The multi-colored, marbled surface of the band and bezel on this model is the physical manifestation of its recycled composition. Here, scrap resin from previous G-SHOCK designs has been transformed into a powdered form and is then mixed in with matte black resin to achieve a uniquely varied and colorful finish. Its style and functionality are signature G-SHOCK, complete with the retro octagonal case and the suite of multi-functional timekeeping features that have been foundational to the brand from the beginning. Oh, and it’s solar-powered. Of all the luxury watch brands out there, Oris is one of the most unarguably adept at incorporating a sense of environmental awareness into its overarching ethos. Whether it’s making dials out of recycled materials or creating limited editions to bring light to certain environmentally focussed charities, an eco-conscious mindset is a key pillar of the contemporary Oris identity. Since we have quite a few models from Oris with recycled dials, I think I’ll just pivot to go through them rapid-fire. high quality replica watches
Given that this limited edition model has a few distinct details that set it apart from the typical Aquis line, it’s only fitting to break it up from the section above. This model falls into the category of environmentally oriented collaborative models and was created in partnership with the Common Wadden Sea Secretariat to bring attention to the group’s conservation efforts. The standout feature of this limited edition, without a doubt, is the unique circular date ring and small seconds sundial at the dial’s center, as well as its color palette directly inspired by the waters of the Wadden Sea. Of course, the Dat Watt Limited Edition is equipped with fitting dive-ready specs, including 300 meters of water resistance. The Oris 743 automatic caliber lies within a power reserve of 38 hours, and each model features a caseback engraved with its unique serial number.
As promised, I’m wrapping up this roundup with a pick for the Grand Seiko fans out there in the form of the SBGJ259. Though it might not have the upcycled construction methods similar to the other models on this list, Grand Seiko is defined largely by its nature-inspired dial designs, so it would be remiss of me not to include one for Earth Day.

With its vibrant green color and unique vertical pattern inspired by bamboo forests, the dial on the SBGJ259 is a personal favorite among the contemporary Grand Seiko catalog. The 40mm diameter is approachable, and the overall design is streamlined and legible with just the right amount of heritage-inspired touches. The Hi-Beat 9S86 movement lies within, powering the GMT hand and imparting a power reserve of 55 hours, and you’re free to observe it in action through the sapphire crystal caseback.

Cartier Santos De Cartier Dual Time

It’s Watches & Wonders, which means there are a whole lot of new releases from Cartier, including one that feels truly made for yours truly – the new Santos De Cartier Dual Time. Offered in a single spec, the new Santos Dual Time has a grey dial and comes with both a bracelet and a grey alligator strap. With a straightforward dual-time display tucked into a subdial at six, this is an exciting release that adds a touch of complication and international intrigue to the Santos we know and love. high quality replica watches
Coming from the larger side of the Santos collection, the new Santos Dual Time’s steel case is 40.2mm wide, 10.1mm thick, and just 47.5mm lug-to-lug. It is water resistant to 100 meters, and the case has been designed to integrate Cartier’s QuickSwitch systems for both of the included options (the steel bracelet and the grey leather strap). Additionally, Cartier has fitted the steel bracelet with the brand’s SmartLink system, which allows for micro-adjustment of the bracelet without tools. high quality replica watches

Inside, and supporting the dual time function, we find Cartier using a customized movement based on the Sellita SW330 (I’ve requested more information on the movement, but it doesn’t appear that much more is available at this time). That said, we know the SW330 well – it is an automatic movement with a rate of 4 Hz and a power reserve of 48 hours. Entirely controlled by the crown, the movement offers time, date, and a subdial that shows a 12-hour display of time in a second time zone along with an AM/PM indication for that time zone. A steel Santos with a grey dial AND a dual time complication? Maybe Cartier confused my birthday with Watches & Wonders, but I’m certainly not complaining. In-person and on the wrist, this Santos wears very closely to the standard large-sized Santos, with a large and flat footprint held by the short lugs. Much of the wrist presence is commanded by the highly polished steel bezel that frames the silver tones of the dial. With plenty of heft from the full steel bracelet, this large sizing is especially sporty, and the time display largely focuses on local time, with the second time zone being relegated to the subdial and the truly tiny day/night indicator at the 12 o’clock position on that subdial. That said, even with the array of silver and grey coloring, I didn’t find the local or away times difficult to read. high quality replica watches

As a first execution for the new Santos Dual Time, I dig the format and the focus on adding an additional time zone to such a versatile design, and I’d be very keen to see the brand tuck this movement and layout into smaller cases and other dial iterations.

Cartier Reflection De Cartier

Cartier strikes with another bangle/cuff watch-hybrid release. The new Reflection de Cartier is closer in style to the more traditional take on high jewelry watch design than its Baignoire bangle cousin. But its essence is aligned with the same overall message: women have a voracious appetite for modern, sculptural and chunky gold jewelry with a time-telling twist. https://www.highluxurystore.ru
Available in plain yellow gold, plain rose gold and in three gem-set on white gold options, the quartz powered watch is concealed and set inside the opening of the cuff. The “reflection” is made on the opposite side of the cuff’s opening, onto the polished gold surface, creating a sort of backwards time-telling optical illusion. Clearly Cartier has been leaning into magic tricks these past few years. We’ve seen the Clash [Un]limited, a watch with a bracelet that has moving vertebrae, and the Cousin, a watch that breathes or squishes if you wanna get technical. https://www.highluxurystore.ru
There are plenty of gems in the Reflection collection: an all white diamond-set model for the traditionalist; a model with a peacock motif, made up of chrysoprases, obsidian, emeralds, Paraiba tourmalines with iridescent blue-green lacquer – for the bold; and an opal, amethyst, spessartite garnet and tiger’s eye set cuff – for the even bolder.
Despite three of these five watches fitting neatly into the high jewelry watch category, the remaining rose and yellow gold models belong to a more modern and nuanced variety of watch design for women. The Reflection de Cartier is a slightly bolder counterpart to the Baignoire bangle. It’s a heavier and more geometric statement, making it a worthy competitor to the Bulgari Serpenti or a vintage Piaget cuff.
No doubt Cartier is riding high on the success of the Baignoire bangle. Their ability to market watches directly at women is currently unparalleled by any of the big brands. The Reflection definitely has less of a commercial appeal than its bangle predecessor and that’s what I love about it. It’s experimental, it’s a standout piece rather than a blend into your bracelet stack piece. I say it’s just plain glamorous. And who doesn’t want that from La Maison Cartier? https://www.highluxurystore.ru

Here’s All the New Watches from Patek Philippe, From Denim-Strapped Aquanauts to New World Timers

At Watches & Wonders, Patek Philippe turns its focus to rose gold, global travel and the toughest material in menswear.

Every spring, new releases from the famous independent top luxury replica watches brand Patek Philippe are almost as anticipated as new releases from Rolex. This year, Patek Philippe has updated a perennial favorite, which seems to be a trend across brands in Watches & Wonders 2024. For some brands, this move may seem too conservative, but for Patek Philippe – a storied independent brand with a catalog full of genre-defining designs – updating a classic may do more to appeal to collectors than launching a new, bold watch satisfy.

If we had to sum up what Patek Philippe has to offer this year, it would be this: there’s a lot of rose gold, a surprising amount of denim—yes, like blue jeans—but no new Nautilus.

Patek Philippe has made some interesting moves over the past five years or so, preserving its history and tradition rather than giving in to the overwhelming demand for popular watches. For example, in late 2021, Patek Philippe canceled the stainless steel Nautilus 5711, a move that could be read not only as a disdain for the one-piece steel bracelet watch trend, but also as an attempt to avoid being overly identified with a 1970s model. Audemars Piguet owns the Royal Oak. Instead, Patek Philippe has shifted its outdoor focus back to the Calatrava collection, specifically 2022’s 5226G Field Watch, the only Patek Philippe watch in history to actually see military action. In this way, Patek Philippe established a more accurate history for itself.

Only within this context can one truly understand what Patek Philippe is releasing in 2024, which is undoubtedly a statement of its storied past. Launched this year, the 5236P in-line perpetual calendar watch with a rose gold opal (also known as salmon) dial is emblematic of this assertion. Th 5236 is a traditional style perpetual calendar with a completely unique yet understated four-disc complication that displays the day of the week, date and month. Or consider 2024’s Aquanauts, which deliberately break the norms of the integrated-bracelet watch category, here available in a cool blue-gray colorway paired with denim. Even the paved Auqanaut retains the core design elements of the now highly regarded model.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5980 60G Aquanaut Flyback Chronograph
As if we needed further proof that Patek Philippe is actively creating a more casual vibe in its catalog over the past few years, denim straps on major complications like this Aquanaut Flyback Chronograph Sealed case. Take a deep breath and think about it: Patek Philippe wearing Levi’s! Of course, the strap is expertly woven from premium calfskin, not to mention it’s one of the most sought-after watches in modern history.

This strap probably wouldn’t work if it weren’t for the perfect match to the opal blue-gray dial set in a massive block of white gold and accented with white gold markers and hands. If that’s your style, we also have a matching set of cufflinks available – a must-have in our opinion if you’re looking to buy the Ref. 5980 60G.

The CH 28-520 C/522 movement is a self-winding flyback chronograph with totalizing via a concentric scale on the subdial at 6 o’clock. Continuing Patek Philippe’s flair for transforming highly complex functions into minimalist styles, this flyback watch hides its chronograph function and presents a more elegant appearance than the standard two- or three-hand versions. Considering Patek Philippe is now using some of the toughest materials in menswear, this extra level of elegance is a very good thing.

Case size: 40.5mm
Case material: white gold
Water resistance: 30 meters
Strap: Woven denim pattern on calfskin
Movement: CH 28-520 C/522 flyback chronograph with date

Patek Philippe Ref. 5164G Aquanaut Travel Time
We’ve already seen this rose gold watch with a brown dial and matching brown rubber strap, so here we see a cool colorway with a white gold case and steel blue dial and strap. For lovers of travel time complications, this model will be great news.

The 26-330 SC FUS movement is a very useful movement for world travelers. Dual time zones are available on the main dial, and the local hour hand can be jumped to the desired position simply using the left button. Meanwhile, the hollow hour hand remains intact regardless of your home time. One of the unique and most useful features of this movement is the inclusion of dual AM/PM indicators, clearly marked “local” and “local”. Before long, reading the time twice on the main watch face will become intuitive so you don’t accidentally call someone in the middle of the night.

Case size: 40.8mm x 10.2mm
Case material: white gold
Water resistance: 120 meters
Strap: rubber

Patek Philippe Ref. 5269R Aquanaut Travel Time
Yes, it’s quartz, and while that may disappoint some die-hard fans of haute horlogerie, others will love its ease of use, incredible precision, and slim 8.77mm case. Rose gold and slate blue contrast beautifully here, and the 38.8mm case is suitable for wrists of all sizes. We even wonder, as men’s watch sizes continue to shrink, this Ref. 5269R won’t appeal to those people. After all, it’s not like Patek Philippe painted it pink, but a great blue.

Of course, the brilliance of the Travel Time series is the ability to easily track time at home and away from home. When the hollow hand hides behind the solid hour hand, it’s time to go home. Pulling the crown out to position one allows you to move the local hour hand (solid hour hand) forward or backward as desired. The AM/PM indicator below the 6 o’clock mark tells you whether it’s day or night in your home, and we think the lack of a date window is actually correct; it’s got symmetry, clean lines, and the ultimate luxury of not caring about the date, Because it’s travel time.

Case size: 38.8mm x 8.77mm
Case material: rose gold
Water resistance: 30 meters
Strap: rubber
Movement: E23-250 S FUS 24H quartz movement

Patek Philippe Ref. 5520RG Alarm Travel Time
For fans of Patek Philippe Travel Time watches, when the Ref. 5520P hit the market in 2019. These additions also make the Ref. 5520P possible. 5520 moves from the “complication” category into the rare “grand complication” of Patek Philippe. This may be a semantic difference, but we think adding a working mechanical alarm to an already very complex watch is quite distinctive.

Alarm watches became a trend in the decades after World War II, and recent decades have also seen a minor resurgence in mechanical alarm complications from brands such as Jaeger-LeCoultre, Breguet, Richard Mille and Hublot. But few of these products are as eye-catching as Patek Philippe’s alarm clock complication, as the AL 30-660 SC FUS movement is a joy to use, look at and listen to. The Travel Time collection has always provided an easy way to track dual time zones abroad, and the addition of an alarm complication does not tarnish this elegant complication. Particularly good is the digital display of the alarm time setting below the 12 o’clock position, which allows for accurate alarms compared to more common rotating alarm clocks mounted on a central spindle.

For 2024, Patek Philippe brings us the 5220RG, a lovely rose gold version with a gray sunburst dial and plenty of luminous accents throughout. This colorway adds even more old-world charm to this already vintage-style watch.

Case size: 42.2mm x 11.6mm
Case material: rose gold
Water resistance: 30 meters
Strap: leather

Patek Philippe Ref. 5738 1R Oval
Let’s start with the solid rose gold link bracelet, a first for the modern Golden Ellipse and certainly a throwback to the past. Braided bracelets have become somewhat lost in the tool-watch-obsessed 21st century, but some of the most detailed and beautiful work in watchmaking hangs from the case. There are 363 individual elements in the bracelet, held together by an engraved clasp that is adjustable in three positions. Bravo, Patek Philippe – you’re bringing home a lost art!

The watch is reasonably sized at 34.5mm in diameter. This may sound small to some, but oversized oval and rectangular watches don’t always look so elegant. Furthermore, the expected effect of wearing such a watch is to find yourself wearing a beautiful bracelet that also happens to have a watch attached to its center. Not that the watch here is an afterthought, but it’s certainly not as dominant as the Calatrava or Nautilus.

All of this suggests – and perhaps unintentionally – that Patek Philippe may have just hit the unisex bullseye.

Case dimensions: 34.5mm x 39.5mm x 5.9mm
Case and bracelet material: rose gold
Water resistance: 30 meters
Movement: Caliber 240 manual winding chronograph

Patek Philippe Ref. 5330G World Time and Date
If the face of this watch looks familiar, that’s because its engravings and basic layout are derived from the acclaimed 5935 World Time Split-Second Chronograph Grande Complication, and because this watch was launched in 2023 Limited release in Tokyo. In general collections, the Ref. 5330G completes Patek Philippe’s world timepieces, with casual styles becoming increasingly common in its catalogue.

Powered by the 240 HU automatic movement, the 5330G offers 24-hour format and AM/PM indication in all 24 time zones. When you press the actuator at 10 o’clock, you will simultaneously advance the hour hand one hour and the city disc 1/24 of a turn, keeping the watch in line with local time while showing you the relative time around the piece precise.

Case size: 40mm x 11.57mm
Case material: white gold
Water resistance: 30 meters
Strap: denim woven leather
Movement: Calibner 240HU C

Patek Philippe Ref. 5160/500R Retorgrade Perpetual Calendar
In 1925, Patek Philippe released a gorgeous, highly engraved gold perpetual calendar watch commonly known as the “REF”. 91975. This watch happened to be the world’s first perpetual calendar watch housed in a small case with lugs and strapped to the wrist, which they eventually called a “wristwatch,” a novel concept in 1925. Patek Philippe revived the spirit of the 91975 in 1925. 5160 from the 2010s, this watch may look a bit over the top in high-resolution digital images, but (we can confirm) it’s surprisingly quiet and elegant in action. In fact, one of our staff writers unexpectedly developed an obsession with the white gold Ref.1 watch. The first time I put it on my wrist, it was numbered 5160.

In 2024, Patek Philippe returns again with the Ref. 5160, equipped with a rose gold “gentleman’s case”, using the original hinged bottom cover and silver-plated opal dial, with an elegant layout that is comparable to any of Patek Philippe’s high-end complications. The modern 5160 features black Breguet numerals, large spade-shaped hour hands, and red-tipped hands that point to a retrograde date arc that leaves room for a traditional-style moon phase window at the bottom of the dial. This timepiece is part of Patek Philippe’s Rare Handmade Collection.

Case size: 38mm
Case material: rose gold
Water resistance: 30 meters
Strap: crocodile leather
Movement: Automatic 26-330 S QR with perpetual calendar, moon phase, leap year, date, day of the week, hours, minutes, seconds

Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5236P

referee. Introduced in 2021, the 5236P is unique in that it displays the day, date and month intuitively through a window with four discs at 12 o’clock (two discs are needed to display the two digits of the date). The self-winding caliber 31-260 requires an additional 118 components just for the display, which operates four discs on the same plane in a small space. Like many elegant, simple products (like the iPhone), the 5236G has a lot of intricate work going on beneath the surface.

This complication watch is housed in a 41.3 mm platinum case that is 11.07 mm thick and includes crystal. We already have the Ref. 5236P on the wrist, and while the platinum creates some weight, the wearing experience is elegant and surprisingly streamlined. Of course, what sets this year’s version apart is the rose gold opal dial, or, as some opinionated collectors call it, a true salmon dial. While other brands use copper, solid gold, and different coatings to achieve the elusive salmon color, Patek Philippe uses a traditional method that dates back to the days of pocket watches.

What’s unconventional here are the charcoal white gold baton markers and hands. Thanks to this interesting choice, the dial has a stealthy 21st century feel that might feel more at home on a less traditionally styled watch. However, the charcoal elements combined with the black print throughout the dial create a quiet clarity that enhances the minimalist style of this understated perpetual calendar.

Case size: 41.5mm
Case material: platinum
Strap: brown alligator leather
Movement: Caliber 31-260 plug-in perpetual calendar

Patek Philippe Ref. 5396G Annual Calendar Moon Phase
This watch debuted in 1996 and has become one of Patek Philippe’s flagship models. As one would expect, there have been multiple iterations over the years, including models in platinum, yellow and rose gold, as well as models with Breguet numerals, Barton markers, white dials, gray dials, black dials, sector dials and soon. This year, Patek Philippe launched a white gold version with a dark blue sunburst smoked dial – something not often seen on Patek Philippe. Still in a compact 38.5mm case, it’s just 11.2mm thick and is water-resistant to 30 meters, which is impressive for a product of this type.

The star of the show is always the tried and tested caliber 26-330 S QA LU 24H. What it boils down to is the annual calendar (which indicates the day, date and month), moon phase and a secondary 24-hour indicator on the subdial at 6 o’clock. The latter serves as an AM/PM indicator and emulates the classic look of the round date calendar of the now vintage Patek Philippe Reference 3448 Annual Calendar, which inspired the modern 5396 we see here. It’s no surprise that Patek Philippe maintains a timeless dial layout, even as the company moves functions around the dial, as many of Patek Philippe’s mid-century designs are masterpieces of clarity and balance. It is no exaggeration to say that the Ref. 5396P lives up to this lofty description.

Case size: 38.5mm x 11.2mm
Case material: white gold
Strap: crocodile leather
Movement: Automatic Caliber 26-330 S QA LU 24-hour annual calendar with moon phases

Patek Philippe Ref. 5268-461G Aquanaut Luce High Jewelry
Let’s crunch the numbers: the white gold watch is set with 72 baguette sapphires (5.29 ct), 38 baguette diamonds (2.03 ct) and 160 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.71 ct) and measures 38.8 mm and is only 9.1 mm high. , water-resistant to 30 meters and an automatic movement with a 45-hour power reserve. Yes, all of this is mounted on a rubber strap – which, at the end of the day, probably makes the Ref. 5268-461G the strongest case yet made of rubber as a luxury material.

It’s a dazzling watch, but we’re struck by how conservative the color palette is despite the endless bling here. We particularly like the way Patek Philippe recreated the three-dimensional grid (or globe) in the center of the dial, giving this watch a distinctly Aquanaut look. Stones often obscure the essence of the original design, but this stone brings it to life. Last year’s rainbow and orange versions were gorgeous, but Patek Philippe has reined itself in and delivered what is sure to become a classic collector’s item into the 2020s. The piece is worth over $250,000 and will likely be the only piece seen at any party.

Case size: 38.8mm x 9.1mm
Case material: white gold
Water resistance: 30 meters
Strap: rubber
Movement: 26-330 S self-winding mechanical chronograph movement only

Patek Philippe Ref. 4910 1201R 20-4
Since 1999, Patek Philippe’s ultra-feminine Twenty-4 collection has been available in smaller sizes, often with quartz movements, precious metals and gemstones. Launching this year is a rose gold cuff watch with a purple lacquered dial with a lovely embossed pattern that is sure to sparkle alongside the diamonds and gold. The case and bracelet are fully polished and set with 34 brilliant-cut diamonds weighing 0.63 carats.

Case size: 25.1 x 30 mm
Case material: rose gold
Water resistance: 30 meters
Bracelet: solid rose gold
Movement: E 15 quartz chronograph only

Our Rolex Predictions For Watches & Wonders 2024

Solid Gold Explorer 36 Redux: Tony Traina
You already gave us two-tone, Rolex, so why not go all the way? To be clear, nothing in Rolex’s past suggests it’d ever do this, which is exactly why I want it. At 36mm, the Explorer is my favorite modern sports watch in the Rolex catalog – I’m glad it’s come back to the One True Size for the Explorer, as seen in the 1016 most other references, even as Rolex also added a 40mm Explorer back to the collection.

We’ve had gold Subs and GMTs for years, but never a full gold Explorer. It feels like it’s about time. Danny begged for the same back in 2022, and now I’m adding my name to the chorus. There’s just something so undeniably perfect – unnecessary, ridiculous, ostentatious, and perfect – about a gold sports watch with a black dial and no date at a size that pretty much anyone could wear.
Funky Stone Dial Day-Date Yellow Gold: Erin Wilborn
The use of stone dials in the Rolex catalog has been largely relegated to the bygone era of the 70s (though many were still produced throughout the 80s and 90s), and even at that time, they were moreso available upon request than stocked with dealers. However, at last year’s Watches & Wonder’s lineup, Rolex did release a new Carnelian Dial Day-Date, among others, though this rendition might have played second fiddle to the much more talked about “Emoji” release.

Given the prevailing movement of green dial watch releases, I think it is much more fun and not-so-unreasonable to imagine that there could be a world in which Rolex could put its own signature on this trend by returning to the groovy malachite stone. Of course, the Day-Date would make the perfect canvas for this sort of thing, and, there’s no other way to go than to pair that rich color with a funky yellow gold case and bracelet. I’m manifesting a disco-era Rolex revival ASAP. I don’t think I’m alone in this either.
Titanium Milgauss With Grey Dial: James Stacey
Okay, so while I don’t actually believe that we will see Rolex release this watch any time soon, I do think that a titanium Milgauss makes a lot of sense.

First, the steel version has been discontinued. Second, titanium is having a moment – both broadly in the sports watch segment but also within the Rolex context (see: RLX Yacht-Master and the Deepsea Challenge). Third – and most specific to the Milgauss hypothesis – is that titanium is an excellent metal for use around magnetic fields as it is not magnetic. This is what makes it great for biomedical implants, as titanium has a crystalline structure without unpaired electrons.

Those of you who know your Rolex history will note that the Milgauss was created in the late ’50s as a watch for scientists and others who work in environments with strong magnetic fields. Heck, the name “Milgauss” is a reference to 1000 gauss, which was the level of magnetism that the original model was designed to resist.

With this in mind, wouldn’t an RLX Milgauss be both nicely aligned with the history and impetus of the entire Milgauss concept and incredibly cool? Yes. Fingers crossed, but don’t get your hopes up.

Czapek Brings The First Antarctique in Gold with the Mount Erebus

Back in 2020, Czapek launched its Antarctique, the brand’s first luxury sports watch that simultaneously featured the brand’s first in-house calibre. The design followed the codes of what a luxury sports watch is said to be, with a shaped case, integrated bracelet and a textured dial. But Czapek being Czapek, it didn’t cut any corners. The Antarctique was fresh, original, and beautifully finished. For Watches and Wonders 2024 and following steel or titanium versions, the Antarctique is available for the first time in gold in response to the demand from clients. To match the 40.5mm gold case, Czapek brings back the lamé dial of the original Antarctique Terre Adélie limited edition. And make sure to check the video on top to get a good look at this new, luxurious edition. Whoever is in the market for a luxury sports watch is spoilt for choice… https://www.highluxurystore.ru yet some options are a bit more special than others. The segment has exploded in popularity over the past years, with the icons becoming virtually unattainable at some stage, with new players entering the genre and even independent brands stepping up to the plate. Among them is Czapek, which launched the Antarctique in 2020, a sporty-chic time-and-date luxury sports watch powered by the brand’s first in-house movement – the Calibre SXH5. Several iterations of the model have been presented over the past few years, including new movements with a split-second chronograph or a skeleton version. It is now time for Czapek to present a gold edition of this successful Antarctique with the Mount Erebus Deep Blue model. The intriguing Mount Erebus name is once again inspired by the geography of Antarctica. Mount Erebus is the largest volcano on the southernmost continent… and it has the particularity of spewing out tiny particles of pure gold into the air! https://www.highluxurystore.ru The 40.5mm gold case of the Antarctique Mount Erebus retains the design of the steel version and it comes either on a matching integrated bracelet (with Czapek exclusive Easy Release system) or a rubber strap fitted with a gold folding buckle. For this gold Antarctique Mount Erebus, Czapek went back to the original Lamé dial, the first decoration introduced as the collection was launched 4 years ago. Made with dial specialist Metalem, it is made using a special comb to create its textured satin finish. The deep blue colour is obtained via CVD (Chemical Vapor Deposition). The sword hands and indexes, matching the colour of the case, are fitted with luminescent material. The Antarctique Mount Erebus is powered by the self-winding calibre SXH5. This handsome 30mm movement is the first movement to have been developed and produced in-house by Czapek. It is wound by a platinum micro-rotor. The architecture of the movement is graced with seven openworked bridges, including the transversal bridge holding the variable inertia balance wheel in place. It beats at 28,800 vibrations/hour and boasts a comfortable 60-hour power reserve on one barrel. The Czapek Antarctique Mount Erebus Deep Blue pink gold will be produced in a limited run of 100 pieces per year. There is also a 2N yellow gold limited edition of 50 pieces. The retail price is EUR 55,000 with a gold bracelet and EUR 32,600 with a rubber strap and gold folding buckle. For more details, https://www.highluxurystore.ru

The 42mm Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Is Back

Last year was a big year for Blancpain, with several new Fifty Fathoms limited edition releases to celebrate the model’s 70th anniversary. The “Act III” model hit many high notes for Mil-Spec models of the past, but the one thing that caught my eye was the new 42mm “Act I” release in stainless steel. I was hopeful it would be an adjustment for the brand down to more reasonable sizes; not just a flash-in-the-pan but rather a sign of good things to come. Well, those good things are here, with new 42mm by 14.2mm Fifty Fathoms now coming in titanium and 18k rose gold in two different dial colors.
The new ref. 5010 line of Fifty Fathoms can be broken down essentially two ways: blue dials or black, titanium or rose gold. You can get either combination, with matching color straps in sail-canvas, NATO, or (my pick) a tropic textured rubber inspired by the 1953 model. Unfortunately, there’s no gold Fifty Fathoms bracelet, but the titanium comes with the option for a bracelet (for $2,700 more than on the strap). https://www.highluxurystore.ru
This is the more modern iteration of the Fifty Fathoms, reminiscent of its bigger, older brother in a 45mm case. You get the applied and lumed Arabic numerals on the sunburst dial, with arrow hour markers and a minute track around the outside. This time, the lume comes with metal surrounds, not just bare lume like the Act I release, bringing it a bit more into the modern design language. The uni-directional 120-click sapphire dive bezel has colors to match the dial. Unlike the 45mm Fifty Fathoms Automatique, the dial is flat, not stepped, simplifying the look quite a bit. There’s also a display caseback to see the caliber 1315 automatic movement, with 120 hours of power reserve thanks to the three series-coupled barrels and magnetic resistance due to the silicon hairspring.
Last year Tony Traina asked for a 40mm Fifty Fathoms and while we’re not quite there yet, these new Fifty Fathoms are great in their own right. It’s also a massive improvement on the past Fifty Fathoms Automatique. Take a look at the photo below and then the following comparing the new 42mm with the (until now) only standard option at 45mm. It’s night and day and the 45mm looks almost comically large. https://www.highluxurystore.ru
There are certainly other things I’d change, but I liked these a lot in my short time with them. I might as well call out those issues, just for the sake of clarity. The lug width is a very strange 21.5mm, so good luck finding other NATOs in the drawer to fit your new watch. That’s more apparent on the bracelet, where the taper looks a bit odd. The date window is always going to irk people. I don’t find it necessary but it seems to be a top-down edict in the Swatch Group to put dates on watches when they can, and at 4:30 come hell or high water. Also, the Blancpain on the side of the case really needs to finally make its exit from the Fifty Fathoms. https://www.highluxurystore.ru Would any of this kill my excitement for the new watches? No, not really. I’m still a fan and these watches wear super, super comfy on the wrist which is essentially the first criteria I have for a watch. The 45mm Fifty Fathoms basically precluded a large number of potential buyers who couldn’t begin to justify wearing a watch that large. Now, at least one problem is fixed. As for the price, that’s largely up to you. I think the unique design touches of a Blancpain certainly make it an enticing option for an eye-catching take on a classic dive watch, now at a more reasonable and widely-wearable size.

A Few Favorite Watches From Italy’s Parma Antique Fair

Last week, I was supposedly taking a vacation between a few work trips in Europe, and, unable to resist the siren’s call of the Italian watch scene, I popped down from Milan to Parma. Actually, www.highluxurystore.ru I took the train back and forth twice on different days. Look, it’s very apparent I have a problem “turning off” when it comes to watches, but there’s something so magnetic about being around Italian collectors. But why Parma? Not (just) for the ham. Twice a year, “Mercante in Fiera” (Merchant at the Fair) takes place at a massive, sprawling, convention center outside the city of 200,000 people. I had the wrong image in my head when it comes to “the Parma Fair.” I expected a quaint, slightly dilapidated brick building with small booths and a few retailers. Not so much. Tens of thousands of Italian and international collectors – not just of watches but antiques, furniture, art, and more – gather at the fair for over a week, hoping to buy, sell, or trade their way into a good find. www.highluxurystore.ru Prices for watches at the fair have become stiff in recent years, but you can still find a few good pieces for sale or (more likely) on the wrists of visitors. I didn’t actually plan to work, I promise. But I brought my camera just in case. In fact, you could say I got cajoled into this photo report by this man below. If he tells me I need to take a picture of a watch, I take a picture of a watch. The process usually involved Goldberger picking up a watch, running his thumb over the crystal to clean it, weighing it in his hand, tilting it to get a quick look to see if it passed muster, and handing it over. After that, I started to get in the rhythm of doing it myself. There were dozens of Daytonas – sometimes four or five Paul Newmans in one case – Day-Dates galore, and all the other usual suspects. Here’s what I found. www.highluxurystore.ru