Here’s All the New Watches from Patek Philippe, From Denim-Strapped Aquanauts to New World Timers

At Watches & Wonders, Patek Philippe turns its focus to rose gold, global travel and the toughest material in menswear.

Every spring, new releases from the famous independent top luxury replica watches brand Patek Philippe are almost as anticipated as new releases from Rolex. This year, Patek Philippe has updated a perennial favorite, which seems to be a trend across brands in Watches & Wonders 2024. For some brands, this move may seem too conservative, but for Patek Philippe – a storied independent brand with a catalog full of genre-defining designs – updating a classic may do more to appeal to collectors than launching a new, bold watch satisfy.

If we had to sum up what Patek Philippe has to offer this year, it would be this: there’s a lot of rose gold, a surprising amount of denim—yes, like blue jeans—but no new Nautilus.

Patek Philippe has made some interesting moves over the past five years or so, preserving its history and tradition rather than giving in to the overwhelming demand for popular watches. For example, in late 2021, Patek Philippe canceled the stainless steel Nautilus 5711, a move that could be read not only as a disdain for the one-piece steel bracelet watch trend, but also as an attempt to avoid being overly identified with a 1970s model. Audemars Piguet owns the Royal Oak. Instead, Patek Philippe has shifted its outdoor focus back to the Calatrava collection, specifically 2022’s 5226G Field Watch, the only Patek Philippe watch in history to actually see military action. In this way, Patek Philippe established a more accurate history for itself.

Only within this context can one truly understand what Patek Philippe is releasing in 2024, which is undoubtedly a statement of its storied past. Launched this year, the 5236P in-line perpetual calendar watch with a rose gold opal (also known as salmon) dial is emblematic of this assertion. Th 5236 is a traditional style perpetual calendar with a completely unique yet understated four-disc complication that displays the day of the week, date and month. Or consider 2024’s Aquanauts, which deliberately break the norms of the integrated-bracelet watch category, here available in a cool blue-gray colorway paired with denim. Even the paved Auqanaut retains the core design elements of the now highly regarded model.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5980 60G Aquanaut Flyback Chronograph
As if we needed further proof that Patek Philippe is actively creating a more casual vibe in its catalog over the past few years, denim straps on major complications like this Aquanaut Flyback Chronograph Sealed case. Take a deep breath and think about it: Patek Philippe wearing Levi’s! Of course, the strap is expertly woven from premium calfskin, not to mention it’s one of the most sought-after watches in modern history.

This strap probably wouldn’t work if it weren’t for the perfect match to the opal blue-gray dial set in a massive block of white gold and accented with white gold markers and hands. If that’s your style, we also have a matching set of cufflinks available – a must-have in our opinion if you’re looking to buy the Ref. 5980 60G.

The CH 28-520 C/522 movement is a self-winding flyback chronograph with totalizing via a concentric scale on the subdial at 6 o’clock. Continuing Patek Philippe’s flair for transforming highly complex functions into minimalist styles, this flyback watch hides its chronograph function and presents a more elegant appearance than the standard two- or three-hand versions. Considering Patek Philippe is now using some of the toughest materials in menswear, this extra level of elegance is a very good thing.

Case size: 40.5mm
Case material: white gold
Water resistance: 30 meters
Strap: Woven denim pattern on calfskin
Movement: CH 28-520 C/522 flyback chronograph with date

Patek Philippe Ref. 5164G Aquanaut Travel Time
We’ve already seen this rose gold watch with a brown dial and matching brown rubber strap, so here we see a cool colorway with a white gold case and steel blue dial and strap. For lovers of travel time complications, this model will be great news.

The 26-330 SC FUS movement is a very useful movement for world travelers. Dual time zones are available on the main dial, and the local hour hand can be jumped to the desired position simply using the left button. Meanwhile, the hollow hour hand remains intact regardless of your home time. One of the unique and most useful features of this movement is the inclusion of dual AM/PM indicators, clearly marked “local” and “local”. Before long, reading the time twice on the main watch face will become intuitive so you don’t accidentally call someone in the middle of the night.

Case size: 40.8mm x 10.2mm
Case material: white gold
Water resistance: 120 meters
Strap: rubber

Patek Philippe Ref. 5269R Aquanaut Travel Time
Yes, it’s quartz, and while that may disappoint some die-hard fans of haute horlogerie, others will love its ease of use, incredible precision, and slim 8.77mm case. Rose gold and slate blue contrast beautifully here, and the 38.8mm case is suitable for wrists of all sizes. We even wonder, as men’s watch sizes continue to shrink, this Ref. 5269R won’t appeal to those people. After all, it’s not like Patek Philippe painted it pink, but a great blue.

Of course, the brilliance of the Travel Time series is the ability to easily track time at home and away from home. When the hollow hand hides behind the solid hour hand, it’s time to go home. Pulling the crown out to position one allows you to move the local hour hand (solid hour hand) forward or backward as desired. The AM/PM indicator below the 6 o’clock mark tells you whether it’s day or night in your home, and we think the lack of a date window is actually correct; it’s got symmetry, clean lines, and the ultimate luxury of not caring about the date, Because it’s travel time.

Case size: 38.8mm x 8.77mm
Case material: rose gold
Water resistance: 30 meters
Strap: rubber
Movement: E23-250 S FUS 24H quartz movement

Patek Philippe Ref. 5520RG Alarm Travel Time
For fans of Patek Philippe Travel Time watches, when the Ref. 5520P hit the market in 2019. These additions also make the Ref. 5520P possible. 5520 moves from the “complication” category into the rare “grand complication” of Patek Philippe. This may be a semantic difference, but we think adding a working mechanical alarm to an already very complex watch is quite distinctive.

Alarm watches became a trend in the decades after World War II, and recent decades have also seen a minor resurgence in mechanical alarm complications from brands such as Jaeger-LeCoultre, Breguet, Richard Mille and Hublot. But few of these products are as eye-catching as Patek Philippe’s alarm clock complication, as the AL 30-660 SC FUS movement is a joy to use, look at and listen to. The Travel Time collection has always provided an easy way to track dual time zones abroad, and the addition of an alarm complication does not tarnish this elegant complication. Particularly good is the digital display of the alarm time setting below the 12 o’clock position, which allows for accurate alarms compared to more common rotating alarm clocks mounted on a central spindle.

For 2024, Patek Philippe brings us the 5220RG, a lovely rose gold version with a gray sunburst dial and plenty of luminous accents throughout. This colorway adds even more old-world charm to this already vintage-style watch.

Case size: 42.2mm x 11.6mm
Case material: rose gold
Water resistance: 30 meters
Strap: leather

Patek Philippe Ref. 5738 1R Oval
Let’s start with the solid rose gold link bracelet, a first for the modern Golden Ellipse and certainly a throwback to the past. Braided bracelets have become somewhat lost in the tool-watch-obsessed 21st century, but some of the most detailed and beautiful work in watchmaking hangs from the case. There are 363 individual elements in the bracelet, held together by an engraved clasp that is adjustable in three positions. Bravo, Patek Philippe – you’re bringing home a lost art!

The watch is reasonably sized at 34.5mm in diameter. This may sound small to some, but oversized oval and rectangular watches don’t always look so elegant. Furthermore, the expected effect of wearing such a watch is to find yourself wearing a beautiful bracelet that also happens to have a watch attached to its center. Not that the watch here is an afterthought, but it’s certainly not as dominant as the Calatrava or Nautilus.

All of this suggests – and perhaps unintentionally – that Patek Philippe may have just hit the unisex bullseye.

Case dimensions: 34.5mm x 39.5mm x 5.9mm
Case and bracelet material: rose gold
Water resistance: 30 meters
Movement: Caliber 240 manual winding chronograph

Patek Philippe Ref. 5330G World Time and Date
If the face of this watch looks familiar, that’s because its engravings and basic layout are derived from the acclaimed 5935 World Time Split-Second Chronograph Grande Complication, and because this watch was launched in 2023 Limited release in Tokyo. In general collections, the Ref. 5330G completes Patek Philippe’s world timepieces, with casual styles becoming increasingly common in its catalogue.

Powered by the 240 HU automatic movement, the 5330G offers 24-hour format and AM/PM indication in all 24 time zones. When you press the actuator at 10 o’clock, you will simultaneously advance the hour hand one hour and the city disc 1/24 of a turn, keeping the watch in line with local time while showing you the relative time around the piece precise.

Case size: 40mm x 11.57mm
Case material: white gold
Water resistance: 30 meters
Strap: denim woven leather
Movement: Calibner 240HU C

Patek Philippe Ref. 5160/500R Retorgrade Perpetual Calendar
In 1925, Patek Philippe released a gorgeous, highly engraved gold perpetual calendar watch commonly known as the “REF”. 91975. This watch happened to be the world’s first perpetual calendar watch housed in a small case with lugs and strapped to the wrist, which they eventually called a “wristwatch,” a novel concept in 1925. Patek Philippe revived the spirit of the 91975 in 1925. 5160 from the 2010s, this watch may look a bit over the top in high-resolution digital images, but (we can confirm) it’s surprisingly quiet and elegant in action. In fact, one of our staff writers unexpectedly developed an obsession with the white gold Ref.1 watch. The first time I put it on my wrist, it was numbered 5160.

In 2024, Patek Philippe returns again with the Ref. 5160, equipped with a rose gold “gentleman’s case”, using the original hinged bottom cover and silver-plated opal dial, with an elegant layout that is comparable to any of Patek Philippe’s high-end complications. The modern 5160 features black Breguet numerals, large spade-shaped hour hands, and red-tipped hands that point to a retrograde date arc that leaves room for a traditional-style moon phase window at the bottom of the dial. This timepiece is part of Patek Philippe’s Rare Handmade Collection.

Case size: 38mm
Case material: rose gold
Water resistance: 30 meters
Strap: crocodile leather
Movement: Automatic 26-330 S QR with perpetual calendar, moon phase, leap year, date, day of the week, hours, minutes, seconds

Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5236P

referee. Introduced in 2021, the 5236P is unique in that it displays the day, date and month intuitively through a window with four discs at 12 o’clock (two discs are needed to display the two digits of the date). The self-winding caliber 31-260 requires an additional 118 components just for the display, which operates four discs on the same plane in a small space. Like many elegant, simple products (like the iPhone), the 5236G has a lot of intricate work going on beneath the surface.

This complication watch is housed in a 41.3 mm platinum case that is 11.07 mm thick and includes crystal. We already have the Ref. 5236P on the wrist, and while the platinum creates some weight, the wearing experience is elegant and surprisingly streamlined. Of course, what sets this year’s version apart is the rose gold opal dial, or, as some opinionated collectors call it, a true salmon dial. While other brands use copper, solid gold, and different coatings to achieve the elusive salmon color, Patek Philippe uses a traditional method that dates back to the days of pocket watches.

What’s unconventional here are the charcoal white gold baton markers and hands. Thanks to this interesting choice, the dial has a stealthy 21st century feel that might feel more at home on a less traditionally styled watch. However, the charcoal elements combined with the black print throughout the dial create a quiet clarity that enhances the minimalist style of this understated perpetual calendar.

Case size: 41.5mm
Case material: platinum
Strap: brown alligator leather
Movement: Caliber 31-260 plug-in perpetual calendar

Patek Philippe Ref. 5396G Annual Calendar Moon Phase
This watch debuted in 1996 and has become one of Patek Philippe’s flagship models. As one would expect, there have been multiple iterations over the years, including models in platinum, yellow and rose gold, as well as models with Breguet numerals, Barton markers, white dials, gray dials, black dials, sector dials and soon. This year, Patek Philippe launched a white gold version with a dark blue sunburst smoked dial – something not often seen on Patek Philippe. Still in a compact 38.5mm case, it’s just 11.2mm thick and is water-resistant to 30 meters, which is impressive for a product of this type.

The star of the show is always the tried and tested caliber 26-330 S QA LU 24H. What it boils down to is the annual calendar (which indicates the day, date and month), moon phase and a secondary 24-hour indicator on the subdial at 6 o’clock. The latter serves as an AM/PM indicator and emulates the classic look of the round date calendar of the now vintage Patek Philippe Reference 3448 Annual Calendar, which inspired the modern 5396 we see here. It’s no surprise that Patek Philippe maintains a timeless dial layout, even as the company moves functions around the dial, as many of Patek Philippe’s mid-century designs are masterpieces of clarity and balance. It is no exaggeration to say that the Ref. 5396P lives up to this lofty description.

Case size: 38.5mm x 11.2mm
Case material: white gold
Strap: crocodile leather
Movement: Automatic Caliber 26-330 S QA LU 24-hour annual calendar with moon phases

Patek Philippe Ref. 5268-461G Aquanaut Luce High Jewelry
Let’s crunch the numbers: the white gold watch is set with 72 baguette sapphires (5.29 ct), 38 baguette diamonds (2.03 ct) and 160 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.71 ct) and measures 38.8 mm and is only 9.1 mm high. , water-resistant to 30 meters and an automatic movement with a 45-hour power reserve. Yes, all of this is mounted on a rubber strap – which, at the end of the day, probably makes the Ref. 5268-461G the strongest case yet made of rubber as a luxury material.

It’s a dazzling watch, but we’re struck by how conservative the color palette is despite the endless bling here. We particularly like the way Patek Philippe recreated the three-dimensional grid (or globe) in the center of the dial, giving this watch a distinctly Aquanaut look. Stones often obscure the essence of the original design, but this stone brings it to life. Last year’s rainbow and orange versions were gorgeous, but Patek Philippe has reined itself in and delivered what is sure to become a classic collector’s item into the 2020s. The piece is worth over $250,000 and will likely be the only piece seen at any party.

Case size: 38.8mm x 9.1mm
Case material: white gold
Water resistance: 30 meters
Strap: rubber
Movement: 26-330 S self-winding mechanical chronograph movement only

Patek Philippe Ref. 4910 1201R 20-4
Since 1999, Patek Philippe’s ultra-feminine Twenty-4 collection has been available in smaller sizes, often with quartz movements, precious metals and gemstones. Launching this year is a rose gold cuff watch with a purple lacquered dial with a lovely embossed pattern that is sure to sparkle alongside the diamonds and gold. The case and bracelet are fully polished and set with 34 brilliant-cut diamonds weighing 0.63 carats.

Case size: 25.1 x 30 mm
Case material: rose gold
Water resistance: 30 meters
Bracelet: solid rose gold
Movement: E 15 quartz chronograph only