Breitling launches the Premier Heritage Collection

Remember Travolta? Remember Beckham? Remember the weird sexist color that the brand seemed to be unable to determine for a long time who was making watches for it and how to talk to them? If you still do this, then maybe it’s finally time to forget cheap Breitling’s grand plan to quickly return to reality, this period of ancient modern history.

When Breitling CEO Georges Kern continued to distance himself from the direction of the brand before the Schneider era, this time he relied on the brand’s own founding managers to inspire inspiration and thus obtained three new references : The traditional manual-winding chronograph, the “rattrapante” or seconds chronograph, and the complete calendar chronograph together constitute the watch that has just been renamed the “Premier Heritage” series.

The original Breitling Premier series became Kern’s banner more or less when Kern assumed the brand leadership role in 2017. Premier positioned the internal movement and used the original design with more complex and advanced decorations. As Breitling (Breitling) came of age, it was a return to form – among the new integrated products launched by the brand at that time, the Pinnacle series of products were worthy of Called the top product. ABTW executive editor Bilal Khan said in his long-term review for 2019 that the first prime minister was “a thoughtful, detailed chronograph that exceeded expectations.” This new derivative product line inspired by tradition seems to continue to follow the same formula, despite adopting a more classic medieval style, echoing the exquisite original Premier watches introduced by Willy Breitling in the 1940s .

Here, we have a colorful, beautifully-looking dial (which nerds who like typography will appreciate), Arabic numerals are applied to the dial, and a more traditional chronograph movement execution method is used-perhaps like Willy Breitling himself once What you want. Yes, this is indeed a complete calendar. best replica watches review

Indeed, this is an amazing smart product, far from Breitling, but as the brand continues to mature and many layers of the back catalog are stripped, we have learned some knowledge that Breitling scholars have always known: Before the advent of the jet age and before sports diving became the mainstream, the brand experienced a very elegant and classic chronograph era in the middle of the last century, which fully embodies the traditional values ​​of the watchmaking industry.

Regardless of the design intent, modern Breitling watches tend to be more sporty. Therefore, to integrate the two value systems of two completely different eras, we have prepared a slightly larger case (standard manual winding chronograph is 40mm, the case is 42mm). Instant and complete calendar styles), each with 100 meters water resistance. The latter feature is a particularly interesting development-how many complete calendar chronographs can you name, which are water resistant to only a negligible 30 or 50 meters? This particular combination of complications is already relatively rare (Jaeger-LeCoultre, Parmigiani, Blancpain and IWC all have something close), but it is wrapped in a beautiful salmon dial and has enough water resistance to make it suitable Every day the wearer treats this reference as a hell of an interesting proposition.

Although the Premier Datora 42 full calendar (refresh: hour, minute, second, date, date, month and moon phase) driven by the automatic movement of the B25 may attract a lot of attention this week, the sneaky show stealer Probably the top Premier B09 Chronograph 40, a tribute to Léon Breitling’s earliest chronograph, which was the first to implement a tachymeter scale for measuring speed. Breitling (Breitling) Breitling (Breitling) B09 manual winding chronograph movement, the skin on the case looks very simple, in fact it is a gorgeous “pistachio” green dial, so far, we have seen it It has been promoted in many products, including Navitimer reissue in 1959 and AVI reference. 765 reissued.

The third option in the trio – the B15 Duograph 42 uses Breitling’s B15 movement, which is interesting because it is actually a B03 chronograph second movement, despite being manually wound. This allows designers to produce functionally similar watches in a more wear-resistant 42mm package. Like the other two new options in the series, you can choose either stainless steel or the precious red gold option – each option has its own unique dial color and color-matched strap.


Brand: Breitling
Models: Premier B09 Chronograph 40 (ref. AB0930D31L1P1 in stainless steel, ref. RB0930371G1P1 in red gold), Premier B15 Duograph 42 (ref. AB1510171C1P1 in stainless steel, ref. RB1510251B1P1 in red gold), Premier B25 Datora 42 (ref. AB2510201K1P1 in stainless steel, ref. RB2510371G1P1 in red gold)
Dimensions: 40 & 42mm
Water Resistance: 100 meters
Case Material: Stainless steel or 18k red gold
Crystal/Lens: Sapphire
Movement: Breitling Calibre B09 (handwound column wheel-actuated chronograph), Breitling Calibre B15 (handwound column wheel-actuated split second chronograph), Breitling Calibre B25 (automatic chronograph with complete calendar)
Power Reserve: 70 hours for B09 and B15 calibres, 48 hours for B25
Strap/Bracelet: Matching alligator with folding clasp

Richard Mille launched the RM 65-01 automatic minute and second chronograph

Most of Richard Mille’s brands are based on combining advanced micromechanical technology with ultra-modern materials from the automotive and aerospace industries. Its latest timepiece RM equipped with a chronograph The 65-01 automatic minute and second chronograph continues this tradition. The company claims that it is also “the most complicated timepiece ever, leaving Richard Mille’s workshop.”

RM 65-01 This new movement was designed by Richard Mille’s engineers and the movement craftsmen of Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier (Parmigiani’s reputation, which includes watchmaking), and lasted about 5 years. year. Inertial balance that vibrates at an amazing speed of 36,600 vph (5 Hz).

Therefore, its integrated second hand timing device has an ultra-precise stopwatch calculation capability, reaching 1/10 of a second. With the exception of Zenith’s El Primero, other chronograph movements cannot achieve this accuracy. The framework of the movement uses six cylindrical wheels and vertical couplings. Viewed from the base, its mechanical “brain” is located on a grade 5 titanium chassis, supported by a bridge of the same material, and receives energy from the rapidly rotating barrel, which is in the 60-hour power reserve of the entire movement Maintain ideal torque.

The luxury men watch case is filled with power through new innovative features. This is a patented technology with a patented quick-winding device that is located at 8 o’clock on the tonneau-shaped Carbon TPT case Started by the pusher. Press this button for one hundred and twenty-five minutes, and the movement will be fully wound, which is also designed to maintain the best torque when worn on the wrist.

Like previous Richard Mille timepieces, the rotor has a “variable geometry”, which means that the wearer can adjust its inertia according to his level of activity to obtain the best spring output. The movement includes at least 600 movements, and has passed a series of tests that Richard Mille considers “relentless”, including anti-magnetic, water resistance, impact resistance and 10 years of simulated aging of the mechanism Test (where the winding button is deployed thousands of times).

Despite its complexity, the RM 65-01 is still a watch. The readability of all its functions is emphasized due to the clever use of color coding. Yellow is used for chronograph elements-hour and minute hands, hour hand and small seconds at 6 o’clock. Orange indicates the central chronograph second hand and the 30-minute and 12-hour chronograph subdials at 3 and 9 o’clock respectively. The winding mechanism is bright red, the date is green, the second hand is blue, and its color is echoed on the pusher.

The bezel, strap and bottom cover are made of Carbon TPT, which is used in racing cars, Formula 1 cars and airplanes, and Richard Mille brought it to the watch factory in 2013. The crown and buttons are micro-blasted and satin-finished. Grade 5 titanium, the quick-winding button is made of red quartz TPT. Another technical feature of Richard Mille timepieces is: a gearbox-style function selector, the user can easily wind the traditional chain (W) by simply pressing the crown, and quickly adjust the date (D). ) And time setting (H).

Our watches are carefully designed, worn and used, and are praised, just like musical instruments that inspire strong emotions.

First, of course, for the automatic Mille model, it includes the seconds hand and the patented quick-winding mechanism, which is activated by a pusher at 8 o’clock. In 125 presses, the barrel has been fully tightened, “the next game can be scheduled on time.” Continuing the racing analogy, there is a new gearbox with a function selector located in the crown. Through this system, you can switch between traditional winding (W), semi-instantaneous date adjustment (D) or setting time (H) by just pressing the crown, so that the driver of the machine is under firm control.

And it is a polished beast. Each external surface (carbon, titanium or red quartz TPT) has fascinating details. Titanium substrates and bridges undergo wet sandblasting, PVD and plasma treatment; wheels are rhodium-plated and chamfered. The steel element sapphire is sandblasted; the other areas are diamond and hand polished, usually before the final touch to confuse the color.

Although the vibrant hues in Mille timepieces are not surprising, the replica RM 65-01 uses distinctive hues to encode functions, not just decorative ones. You will find the yellow touch time (hours, minutes, etc.); the date is displayed in green; the second hand and sub-dial of the chronograph are orange; the second hand is blue; and the second hand is blue. Red is the winding mechanism.

All in all, you need 600 years to complete the hodgepodge of work, which lasted five years, and only one team, but the collaboration of two teams can be achieved. The internal team is responsible for the design parameters and is led by Salvador Arbona, the movement technical director of Richard Mille.

The external team of Vaucher Manufacture consists of 150 employees and is headquartered in Fleurier, Switzerland, dedicated to the research and development of “engine blocks”. The idea is to create a timing tool suitable for professional and amateur racing drivers that incorporates all the technical capabilities of the brand.

Jean-Noël Lefevre, managing director of Vaucher, pointed out that the links between the two companies in Switzerland are very important. He said: “We design the power that drives the watch and make independent movements.” “Our suppliers are all locals… We belong to the watchmaking cluster, which integrates all the expertise and skills to produce high-end timepieces. .” RICHARD MILLE RM 011-FM

In particular, Vaucher studied the variable geometry rotor of the RM 65-01. Lefevre said: “Each design provides an opportunity to increase the complexity and innovation of watchmaking. These complexity and innovation represent the true mechanical advantage of the watch and the wearer.” “The variable geometry rotor also guarantees the machine. Optimization of the core winding mechanism and personalized user lifestyle.” A patented mechanism can change the inertia of the rotor by speeding up the winding to reduce the movement of the arm and hand, or slowing it down during strenuous exercise. “

You would think that there are many things that can go wrong here, which is forgivable, although Arbona has soothing words for any doubter.

“This is an automatic chronograph, its design is similar to our tourbillon, usually in extreme conditions can also meet the stringent requirements of daily wear.” Therefore, Arbona said that before providing a five-year warranty, it faced A series of “relentless” tests.

These contents cover the “full range of trials and tribulations” that the watch may suffer: shock and drop simulation; accelerated 10-year aging stage; water and magnetic field resistance tests.

How to sum up such a exact replica watches? Arbona: “Our watches are carefully designed, worn and used, and they are also admired by people, just like musical instruments that inspire strong emotions.”

Jacob & Co. Astronomy Casino Hands-on Watch

As I mentioned before, timepieces are sometimes just out of appreciation for craftsmanship…not practicality, not versatility…just a proof of success. For me, this is an opportunity. . . “

Jacob & Co. Astronomical Casino, also known as Jacob & Co. Astronomy Gambler, is another unique creation of Jacob & Co., and the conception, design and production are ridiculously dominated by them. The goal is to design, interesting, and ultra-high-end watches-because this kind of thing does exist and has actually been there for many years.

The naughty in the middle is ruled by Harry Winston Opus watches, which are widely and taken for granted as the original source of fine watches. Creative works that overcome established limitations in design and functionality-in their teens, they are all related to the large-scale complication of musical Jaquet Droz, with perpetual calendar, chronograph and automatic winding device. (Some basic research will enable you to realize how the value of these products from companies such as Audemars Piguet, IWC, Lange and Thorne has fallen, sometimes to 25% to 30% of the original retail price.) Why do I say this? ? First of all, because I didn’t realize until recently that this is something that happens frequently, with “big complications” rather than “disposable lemons,” and second, it shows that many people who can afford these things are ready to fight. Their purchases (or even if they are not ready, they are forced to do so,

Whether you like it or not, the resale value of these once-once Holy Land status watches can tell you their current needs better than I can. Those watches that burn six digits (USD) when they can be purchased have migrated to watches with any one or more of the following: 1) novel, 2) fun, 3) expressive, 4) unique, 5) Easy to use and appreciate. As with watches, the more boxes that are ticked, the higher the price. Jacob & Co. Astronomer Casino went to great lengths to tick all these boxes, and then some more.

With its ridiculous thickness of 27.9 millimeters (only one inch, and then some more!), this is an indisputable thickness. It is a watch that is easy to appreciate when viewed up close and on the other side of the dining table. It’s as cautious as Francis Bacon in the 1940s who was sitting on a boat at dinner and fixed overhead like a sail. The multi-layered, multi-purpose JCAM29A caliber can verify its weight. The caliber includes the astronomical “vertical caliber”, the rotating platform with its four rotating arms, and the fully functional fully mechanical roulette below it.

First, a few words about astronomy. Although copy Jacob & Co. has created many distinct variants of this movement, it is still truly outstanding in terms of its structure and function. Powered by a single spring, it can retain 60 hours of power (it can be longer or shorter depending on model changes and increased complexity), except for the barrel and winding device and the “bow” device (the watch on the crown) Crown) bottom cover) is reflected in this four-arm assembly.

The four arms are equipped with a dual-axis tourbillon (hereinafter will be explained as a three-axis tourbillon soon), a blue magnesium miniature planet earth, a 1 carat, 288 faceted Jacob cut diamond, which also revolves around its own axis of rotation and the time Differential slave turntable. These four arms simultaneously and simultaneously rotate on the dial in less than 10 minutes-it is this rotation that adds a third 10-minute axis to the tourbillon.

The time display rotates with the component, so in order to prevent it from turning upside down when rotating around the dial, a differential is required. This keeps the sub-dial horizontal, can drive the hands, and rotate the entire assembly together.

The tourbillon and the spinning diamond are impressive, and two of my favorite feats in astronomy are this differential drive time display and the fact that the two opposing arms are perfectly balanced with each other. That is a cool “invisible project”, it can save the movement from the excessive tension caused by the overweight arm, and the tension will pull or push the precision train assembly.

The core of this astronomy is of course the complexity of roulette. When you press the button at the 8 o’clock position on the lower case, the wheel will be strongly rotated to make the white ceramic ball fly. In order to prevent it from entering the movement, the entire roulette function is set under a piece of sapphire crystal glass. Every time you press the button, the function of this complex function will make people feel at ease, and the overall execution effect of every detail is excellent.

The wheel is refined in 18k rose gold, and black and red enamel are used for its 36+1 pockets. As I said, the thickness is 27.9mm, while the diameter of the case is 47mm. Strangely, because the lugs are very short and have a large downward slope, overall wear resistance is another way for Astronomia Casino to play games. Seen directly from above, the overall effect is controllable, even on my narrow wrist with a diameter of 6.75 inches. However, as soon as I started to take the watch away from me, it began to reveal its Bunkers case structure, topped with a generously curved front sapphire crystal. Speaking of, the case strap is a sapphire crystal strap. When paired with the hollow lugs, you can easily enjoy the Jacob & Co. Astronomia Casino in operation.

Of course, compared with any traditional large-scale complication, it is much more entertaining, and even if you are not a real gambler, the construction of this movement will definitely attract the watch lovers inside.