Jacob & Co. Bugatti Chiron Sapphire, as crazy and unique as a W16-powered supercar

One of the most impressive discount fake watch ever made just got even more luxurious.

Picture yourself waking up on a Sunday morning, getting out of bed, taking a shower, and starting the day in peace. You prepare yourself a nice espresso and a delicious breakfast. You check the time, kiss your partner goodbye, pick up the keys, and head to the garage to drive your new car. You open the door, sit on the leather seat, and enjoy a minute or two of silence. You check the time again, start the watch’s engine and turn the key to the ignition to energize the car. Two W16s run in perfect harmony, one on your wrist and one inches behind you, with 1,500 horsepower ready to propel you to the horizon. In case you were wondering, you wore a Jacob & Co. Bugatti Chiron sapphire crystal and fired up your Bugatti Chiron. And for seven lucky people, this dreamlike scenario is not far from reality.

Given that Bugatti will only be making 500 of the super-powerful Chirons, you’re more likely to encounter one of these than to find a Jacob & Co. Bugatti Chiron sapphire crystal in the wild. Only seven lucky men or women would love to own a watch like this; Jacob & Co. will only earn these. While it’s not the most restrained piece in watchmaking history, it’s certainly an impressive thing. The complexity of the miniature W16 automaton is a testament to the craftsmanship of the Jacob & Co. watchmakers. Like its Astronomia line, it’s a bold and expressive display.

Since the release of the first Jacob & Co. Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon, a few things have changed, and certainly this is the case most obviously. Now made in full sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating, by the way, it measures a whopping 57.8mm in length, 44.4mm in width and 21.5mm in height. The case looks simple as it flows around the movement, but its shape is very delicately machined. Take a moment, curves and lines are everywhere, and of course the iconic Bugatti horseshoe grille at noon adds to the challenge.

The crown and pushers for starting the working sapphire crystal W16 engine are made of sapphire crystal and titanium. From left to right, we have the crown to set the time, the crown to wind the movement and the automaton, and the buttons to start the animation. The sapphire crystal engine is located in the lower half of the watch and has a miniature crankshaft milled from solid steel. This tiny crankshaft drives all 16 pistons up and down, just like in a real car.

While previously it didn’t have a dial of any kind, this version has a floating hour ring that helps make reading the time easier. Some elements of the watch, such as the hour indices, shock absorbers and tourbillon cage, are given a touch of red to match the red details on the exterior of the case. The power reserve indicator shows the French national colors on the left (Bugatti is located in Molheim, France).

Jacob & Co. fashion fully discloses the entire JCAM37 movement made in-house. While technically it’s the same movement as every Jacob & Co. Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon, it looks a little different here. For example, the bridges at the top of the movement have a different shape, as does the tourbillon cage (which now has a diamond on top). The power reserve indicator has also been given a new look, and the shape of the hands has changed a bit. The view on the back of the movement remains the same.

While evocative from the outside, the sophistication certainly matches the visual impact. The level of detail throughout the movement, chronograph face and automatic mechanism is haute horological. The hand-wound movement uses no less than 578 components, including 51 jewels. Suspending the movement with effective shock absorbers was a challenge for Jacob & Co. because you risked damaging the link to the fixed crown on impact. The solution is to use a patented car-style lateral system for a little gaming while keeping everything connected tidy. When fully wound through the left crown, the watch has a runtime of 60 hours. That’s far more than the 20 minutes it takes a Bugatti Chiron to empty the tank at full speed, mind you, plan your drive ahead of time.

In keeping with the swiss watch‘s supercar credentials, the Jacob & Co. Bugatti Chiron sapphire crystal watch is worn on a ventilated white rubber strap mounted on a titanium folding clasp.

Case: 57.8mm long x 44.4mm wide x 21.5mm high – full sapphire case, anti-reflective coating – sapphire crystal and titanium pushers and crown – Chiron “grid” with Bugatti logo on the strap at 12 o’clock Grid” – 30m waterproof
Dial: Red scale ring with red “EB” logo – Rhodium-plated hands with red tip – French red, white and blue power reserve indicator
Movement: Jacob & Co. JCAM37, Manufacturing – 41.7mm L x 36mm W x 15.6mm H – 578 components – 51 jewels – 21,600vph – Working W16 Sapphire Crystal “Engine” Automatic (On Demand) – 30° Inclined one-minute tourbillon escapement – ​​hours, minutes, seconds (by tourbillon), power reserve indication
Strap: White Rubber Strap – Titanium Deployment Clasp

Breitling Endurance Pro

In my opinion, one of the most successful Swiss watches of 2020 is the Breitling Endurance Pro. Available in a variety of stylish colors, this is an easy-to-appreciate entry-level Breitling sports watch that is perfect for the era. Endurance Pro is also a series that is easy to miss for many. Most watch collectors want a mechanical watch rather than a quartz watch, and it’s not wrong to call the Endurance Pro a quirky G-Shock. This is not the essence of the Breitling polished metal fan base. But Breitling has a response to it all.

Under Mr Kern’s direction, the “new” Breitling is diversifying towards more entry-level and youth-oriented access. The Endurance Pro is still a lot of change at $3,000, but it’s also nearly three times cheaper than the brand’s new 2020 Chronomat B01 42, which offers a completely different but also very good wearing experience. Breitling is always lucky to have its “professional” watch collection in addition to its luxury base. This means the Endurance Pro can easily fit into a modern Breliting lineup at a lower price, as it’s not uncommon for brands to do so. It also lets Breitling compete at an interesting price point when you can’t get a Rolex, Omega, IWC, etc. at this price point. This is TAG Heuer territory, but for a different type of customer.

The design formula for Endurance Pro is also very simple. Breitling first decided to use its Breitlight material (carbon) again and focus on quartz movements. Note that while a regular Swiss-made quartz movement costs $3,000, the Endurance Pro does not include a regular Swiss movement. Inside the watch is the Breitling Caliber 82, which is a basic ETA heat-compensated quartz movement. This time, date and complication chronograph movement has a quartz crystal regulation system with a sensor that measures the temperature. Changes in temperature can negatively impact the ability of these already precise movements to operate at peak levels. Capable of compensating for the temperature changes typically experienced by watch movements worn on the wrist, the Caliber 82 is accurate to around 10 seconds per year.

You’ll see a “Chronometer” label on the watch face. This is also a true COSC Chronometer watch. Note that the Swiss COSC tests performance differently for quartz and mechanical watches. Predictably, testing for quartz mechanisms is much more rigorous. Once you understand how similar the time and effort this movement is to a traditional mechanical watch, you can not only better understand its value proposition, but also appreciate how it truly is a professional watch.

The Endurance Pro is the second generation of the product concept and actually predates Mr. Kern’s stewardship of the brand. In 2017, Breitling launched the Colt Skyracer (hands-on with aBlogtoWatch here), which offered a Breitlight case, a three-hand SuperQuartz movement, and a $2,000 price point. With the 2020 Endurance Pro, Breitling retains the core vibe of the entry-level sports watch theme, but tries to incorporate the design language more into the current collection. The Colt Skyracer is a pilot-style watch inspired by the world of sport flying. The Endurance Pro looks more like a triathlon watch for people who regularly schedule intervals or activities.

The name Endurance Pro is new, but the dials and hands are basically from the current-generation Aerospace Evo (which came out around 2013). Breitling actually fixed an issue with that design on the Endurance Pro, which was that the hands were polished and should be matte. Otherwise, the Endurance Pro is a fully analog chronograph version of the Aerospace Evo with a Breitlight carbon fiber case. Note that the Breitling Emergency II watch also belongs to the same design collection.

Small improvements in the design of the Endurance Pro help make it a very different watch from its predecessor. For example, there is a pulsometer scale on the flange ring – eliminating the tendency for sports watch makers to use outdated tachymeter scales. The pulsometer allows you to measure your pulse while operating the chronograph and counting some heartbeats. Since many Breitling Endurance Pro wearers will use it as a sports watch, it’s entirely conceivable that the pulsometer will occasionally be relevant and help make the text on the dial feel more functional and less casual.

At less than 65 grams on the wrist, the Endurance Pro is indeed a lightweight watch – and it’s not that small either. It’s great to wear because it’s light and comfortable. The case is approximately 44mm wide and 14mm thick, with a lug-to-lug distance of 53mm. The case is water-resistant to 100 meters, and above the dial is a flat AR-coated sapphire crystal. Around the bezel is a bi-directional rotating navigation bezel. These look cool, but I prefer the 60-minute scale on the smooth-touch rotating black carbon bezel.

This particular version of the Breitling Endurance Pro is available in white and black (Oreo cookies or Star Wars stormtroopers, depending on your mood) reference X82310A71B1S1. While I have a feeling there are more colors coming soon, the Endurance Pro model’s launch combo includes black and yellow, navy, orange, red, and the white model shown here. To add to its Star Wars flair, when the chronograph is running, I imagine the hands of the chronograph are dueling a red lightsaber. Speaking of dials, Breitling maintains a sharp look even for entry-level watches, with a nice finish and applied elements like hour markers. Some purists might not forgive Breitling for letting the chronograph subdials cut off the hour markers so much.

The Breitling-branded rubber strap that comes with the Endurance Pro has typical Breitling high-quality straps with a buckle with two holes for the strap excess to make it fit better on the wrist. The strap buckle is also made of the same carbon Breitlight material as the case and feels great in the hand.

What I love most about the Breitling Endurance is that it doesn’t celebrate any particular activity, but an attitude—one that moves forward with strength and sheer will. Wow, how did Breitling know that the most famous human power in 2020 is endurance? This makes the Endurance Pro unwittingly the perfect watch for this year’s hero. Endurance, as a state of mind is the new force the Breitling Endurance Pro aptly evokes, and I don’t even think the Breitling marketers could have planned for it better.