FP Journe Releases LineSport Centigraphe and Automatique Réserve Watches

FP Journe announces that the Centigraphe and Automatique Réserve are now available in platinum and 18k 6N gold to suit your heavy (precious) metal lovers. In a radical departure from the sporty and interesting titanium case and yellow dial style released last year, the FP Journe adds a more upscale option for those interested in the LineSport aesthetics or functionality, without losing any of the watch’s technical appeal. Impressive achievement.

When FP Journe released the brightly colored yellow LineSport option last year, it did feel a little out of place in its catalog. Granted, I appreciate the titanium case and sporty aesthetic that the yellow dial brings, but it really doesn’t look like an FP Journe. The release of these two gold and platinum watches feels more in line with what we’ve seen from the brand in the past. In terms of size, both watches are 44mm in diameter, the Centigraphe is 10.95mm tall and the Automatique Réserve is 11.10mm thick. Depending on the case material you choose, both watches come with a matching platinum or gold bracelet. While the watches share a similar overall aesthetic, the main difference is the technical prowess of the complications.

The Centigraphe is a unique chronograph powered by the in-house Calibre 1506, a hand-wound movement with an 80-hour power reserve and finished in gold. This chronograph is actuated by a rocker on the right side of the case, rather than the pusher commonly found on most chronographs. Unlike many other chronographs, the Centigraphe is extremely precise and its sub-dial allows you to track 1/100th of a second, 20 second and 10 minute indications instead of the usual seconds, minutes and hours sub-dial. For an in-depth look at this movement and how it works, read David’s first-hand experience with the Centigraphe Souverain.

Compared to Centigraphe, Automatique Reserve is much simpler. Powered by the in-house Caliber 1300.3, a rose gold automatic movement with a power reserve of 160 hours; the Automatique Réserve has its own complications. The Automatique Réserve displays the central hours and minutes with a small seconds sub-dial, as well as a day/night indicator, power reserve indicator and a large two-pane date window. By comparison, Automatique Réserve is certainly more conservative (ba-dum-tiss), and in my opinion, it’s still pretty.

While precious metals are certainly not my thing, they do have an important place in the fake watches review industry, especially now that gold is “coming back” whether we like it or not. No doubt I would have preferred the yellow cousin in titanium case released last year, but I’m not the target market for these pieces either. These technically impressive watches should also be available in precious metals for those looking to dress them up and enjoy the extra weight and lustre that platinum and gold bring.

Jacob & Co. Astronomia Casino Watch Hands-On

The Jacob & Co. Astronomia Casino, also known as the Jacob & Co. Astronomia Gambler, is another unique creation by Jacob & Co. conceived, designed and produced in a move towards their goal of dominating the field of absurd over-engineering Yet another, interesting, ultra-high-end watch — because such things do exist, and in fact have been for years.

Given that Harry Winston Opus watches dominated the mid-play naughty – widely and rightly considered the original source of haute horlogerie – creations that challenged the established limits of design and function – the early teens were all about Jaquet Droz Musical pieces, big brand complications with perpetual calendar, chronograph and striking mechanism. (A little basic research will make you realize how the value of these things from Audemars Piguet, IWC, Lange and others has fallen off a cliff, sometimes to 25% to 30% of the original retail price.) Why do I so? On the one hand, because I didn’t realize until recently that it was a common “serious complication” and not just a “disposable” lemon, and second, to show that there are so many people who can afford these things that are ready to hit their purchases (or even if they are not ready, they are forced,

Like it or not, the resale value of these once Holy Grail state watches is more than I can tell you about their current demand. Those who can burn six-figure sums (in dollars) when buying a watch have turned to watches that have any one or more of the following: 1) novel, 2) interesting, 3) expressive, 4) unique, 5) Simple appreciation. As with watches, the more boxes you tick, the higher the price in general. Jacob & Co. Astronomia Casino goes to great lengths to tick all those boxes, and then some.

With its – no other words to describe it – absurd thickness of 27.9mm (i.e. an inch, then some!), it’s a watch that’s easy to admire up close…and the other side of the dining table. It’s as discreet as a 1940s Francis Bacon pinned to your head while sitting at dinner, like a sail. Its weight is verified by the multi-layered, multipurpose JCAM29A movement, which includes the Astronomia “vertical movement” with its rotating platform consisting of four rotating arms and a fully functional, fully mechanical roulette complication beneath it .

First, a few words about astronomy. Although Jacob & Co. created many distinct variants of this movement, it is still excellent in terms of its construction and function. Powered by a single mainspring with an impressive power reserve of 60 hours (maybe longer or shorter depending on model variations and added complexity), essentially apart from the mainspring barrel and winding and setting “bow” Each component of the (crown replacement caseback) plays a role in this four-arm assembly.

Four arms with a double axis tourbillon (which I’ll explain shortly as a triple axis tourbillon), a blue magnesium miniature planet Earth, a 1 carat, 288 faceted Jacob cut diamond, which also goes around it Self-rotating shaft, and differential drive sub-dial for the time. These four arms rotate simultaneously on the face of the watch in less than 10 minutes – it is this rotation that adds a third 10-minute axis to the tourbillon.

The time display rotates with this assembly, so to prevent it from being upside down while running around the copy watch face, a differential is required. This allows the sub-dial to remain level, the hands to be driven, and the entire assembly to rotate together.

The tourbillon and rotating diamonds may be impressive, but two of my favorite astronomical achievements are this differentially actuated time display, and the fact that each two opposing arms are perfectly balanced against each other. Here’s some cool “invisible engineering” to keep the movement from being overly strained by the overweight arm that pulls or pushes the precision-running train assembly.

The heart of this astronomy is, of course, its roulette complexity. Press the button at the 8 o’clock position of the case, the roulette wheel is forcibly rotated, and the small white ceramic balls fly. To prevent it from entering the movement, the entire roulette function is set under a piece of sapphire crystal. The functionality of this complication is reassuring every time the button is pressed, and the overall execution of its every detail is as spectacular as it’s damned.

The wheels are made of 18k rose gold with black and red enamel for its 36+1 pockets. As I said, the thickness is 27.9mm, while the case diameter is 47mm. Oddly enough, with the lugs being so short and angled sharply downward, overall wear resistance is another way Astronomia Casino plays with the senses. Seen directly from above, the overall effect is manageable—even on my narrow wrist, which is 6.75 inches in diameter. However, once I start laying the watch flat away from myself, it starts to show off its crazy case construction, topped by a generously curved sapphire crystal. Speaking of which, the strap is a single sapphire crystal strap that, when paired with the skeletonized lugs, provides an easy view of the Jacob & Co. Astronomia casino in action.

As shown here, it is a one-of-a-kind piece. It’s certainly far more fun to play than any traditional grand complication, and even if one isn’t a gambler, the way this movement is constructed is sure to appeal to watch lovers inside.

Hublot Big Bang Integral Time-Only Collection

Slimer, smaller, fully integrated, but still a great fit for Hublot.

Launched more than 15 years ago, the Hublot Big Bang and its Fusion Art concept have spawned countless variations in every size, material or complication. Versatile, ever-evolving Big Bangs are often bold, radical, or polarizing. As the name suggests, it’s not for the faint of heart… For LVMH Watch Week 2022, the Big Bang Integral Time Only takes a different design syntax and refocuses the quintessence of a luxury sports watch on a one-piece bracelet, while having all the classic Hublot element.

Launched in 2020, 15 years after the model, the Integral is the first Big Bang with an integrated metal bracelet. The original chronograph model, powered by the Unico movement, is already a radical departure from the brand’s traditional styling. The Big Bang Integral Time-Only goes a step further, reconnecting Hublot’s iconic design to a prototype luxury sports watch with an integrated bracelet. So the genre popular today was created by Gérald Genta and Audemars Piguet, and it’s simple and straightforward: matching a sporty case with an integrated bracelet and automatic thin movement.

As Hublot CEO Ricardo Guadalupe explained, the Big Bang Integral Time Only “is more compact, dynamic and powerful than ever before, and at the same time more refined…it has always been a true exercise in watch design. , which retains our aesthetic and technical syntax, but is a whole new format for us.”

In fact, this new Integral Time-Only collection is perfect for a big bang. The new case is modest in size, in line with Hublot standards, with a diameter of 40mm and a height of 9.25mm. It comes in three different materials, typical of the Hublot collection: titanium, gold or black ceramic. The rubber composite insert is sandwiched between the middle of the case and the circular bezel fitted with the H-screw. The waterproof rating is 100m.

This new time-only model features a sapphire dial that exposes the top of the movement, including a date wheel with skeletonized numerals. The faceted applied hour-markers that match the hands are equipped with luminous material. The one-piece three-link bracelet mirrors the angles of the case and shows alternating satin-brushed and polished surfaces. The first link merges with the shell. The structure is based on a larger central piece held between two transverse end pieces. The triple folding clasp is released by a pair of push buttons. high quality replica watch

Flip the Hublot Big Bang Integral Time-Only over and the exhibition caseback allows you to discover the HUB1710 movement. This self-winding movement has a diameter of 25.60 mm and a thickness of approximately 4 mm. It is based on the Zenith Elite 670 – Hublot and Zenith are sister companies of the LVMH group. Running at 4Hz, it has a 50-hour power reserve when fully wound. The overall décor is modern and understated, in a single colour, with circular Côtes de Genève stripes on the bridges and a skeletonised oscillating weight.


Case: Diameter 40mm x Height 9.25mm – Titanium, 18K Yellow Gold or Black Ceramic – Brushed and Polished Finish – Bezel with 6 H-Screws – Black Composite Resin Lower Bezel – A/R Coated Sapphire Crystal – Sapphire Case Back – Water – 100m Resistant
Dial: Sapphire crystal with faceted indexes – Hands and indexes filled with Super-LumiNova – Skeleton date wheel with aperture at 6 o’clock
Movement: Caliber HUB1710 (basic Zenith Elite 670) – Automatic winding – 27 jewels – 185 parts – 25.60mm x 4mm – 28,800 vibrations/hour – 50 hour power reserve – hours, minutes, seconds, date
Bracelet: Three-link one-piece satin-polished titanium, 18K yellow gold or black ceramic – folding clasp
Model: Titanium – 456.NX.0170.NX
Gold – 456.VX.0130.VX
Black Ceramic – 456.CX.0140.CX