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Whereas the mid-naughties were ruled by Harry Winston Opus watches — widely and rightfully credited as the original source of haute horlogerie creations that defied established limitations in design and functionality — the early teens were all about musical Jaquet Droz pieces, big-brand grand complications with perpetual calendars and chronographs and chiming mechanisms. (Some basic research will lead you to realize how the values of these things from the likes of Audemars Piguet, IWC, A. Lange & Söhne, and others have dropped off a cliff, sometimes down to 25 to 30% of their original retail price.) Why am I saying this? For one, because it was only recently that I came to realize how this was a frequent thing with “grand complications” and not just “one-off” lemons, and second, to show that so many of those who can afford these things are ready to take a blow on their purchases (or even if ready they are not, they are forced to, should they wish to exit a position in one of these watches). jacob and co astronomia replica
Why do these traditionally highly valued watches tend to take such a massive hit in their “value,” save for a select few references that are like currency? For one, because they were severely over-produced. When you can pick up an Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars “Equation of Time” Calendar for $28,000, even though it originally retailed for nearly $110,000, or an IWC Grande Complication Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar Limited Edition for $80,000, though it originally retailed for around $250,000, the relative abundance of these watches really strikes back. Another element to consider is that they simply are not fun anymore — not in the eyes of their original owners. The perpetual calendar kool-aid was strongly addictive back around the late ’00s, but when the only thing you can say for one of the key complications in your watch is, “Yeah, it’s not doing anything right now that you can see, but do you even know how complicated this is?” — that’s not a good sign.
The time display rotates with this assembly, and so, to keep it from turning upside down as it orbits the face of the watch, the implementation of a differential was required. This allows for the sub-dial to remain level, for the hands to be driven, and for the entire assembly to rotate together.
As impressive the tourbillon and the rotating diamond may be, my favorite two feats in the Astronomia are this differential driven-time display and the fact that each two opposing arms are perfect counterweights of each another. That’s some cool “invisible engineering” that saves the movement from suffering excessive strains from an overweight arm that would pull or push the delicate-going train assembly.
The wheel is crafted from 18k rose gold, with black and red enamel used for its 36+1 pockets. As I said, the thickness is 27.9mm, while the case measures 47mm in diameter. Strangely, because the lugs are so short and are angled steeply downward, the overall wearability is the Astronomia Casino’s other way of playing games with one’s senses. Looking at it directly from above, the overall effect is borderline manageable — even on my narrow wrists, 6.75 inches in diameter. However, once I start tiling the watch away from myself, it begins to reveal its bonkers case structure, topped off with a generously curved front sapphire crystal. Speaking of which, the case band is one single band of sapphire crystal which, when paired with the hollowed out lugs, makes for an easy way of appreciating the Jacob & Co. Astronomia Casino in operation.